Hello Todd...I just read most all the posts here regarding painting Tin Roofs...We have a home in Georgia, that was built in 1896, the previous owners added a (kelly) green roof a couple of years before we bought it and we've had the home 10 years, so I am guessing it's about 12-13 years old. I was never fond of the color because it makes it difficult to change the home color to match that green. After reading your posts I feel a little better about painting the tin, because the tin has faded quite a bit....so do you know and contractors in the area that I could contact? We live west of Atlanta, Carroll County. Thank you in advance.
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I unfortunately do not know of any professional painting contractors in your area though I am sure there are many. There is a company out of Columbus Ohio that is very skilled in this area and they travel the country. The company is Martin Painting.
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Hi Todd,
I just bought a home in Montana that has (what I believe to be) steel roofing. I'd like to repaint it because, along with the fact that it is so badly sun bleached, the garage and house have different colored roofs. I'm worried that the paint will not hold up in the weather here. Any experience or recommendations? Also, do you know of any professional painters in my area?
Thanks!
Loni
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Loni,
It sounds like your roof is suitable for repainting. It will need to be cleaned, primed, and painted. This can be done by spray process with a quality paint from a company like Sherwin Williams. Or you can try to obtain an air dry PVDF formulation such as PPG's Aquatic system. Those systems will perform better for the long term. I do not know of any commercial painters in your area though I am sure they exist. Here is a company from Ohio that does this work: http://www.martinpainting.com They travel nationally, and they also may know of someone more local to you.
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I have a galvanized steel roof on my house in central valley of Costa Rica that was painted 8 years ago with a medium green color. Metal roofs are the norm here and they are always painted in dark colors. As we are 8 degrees latitude, 2500 foot elevation, I plan to repaint using a white color to reduce the solar gain. Local available brands are SUR and Lanco.
My plan is to pressure wash and then scrub with TSP. I will treat any rust areas with vinegar before scrubbing with TSP.
We will paint using a airless sprayer and back rolling.
How many coats are suggested? We do not have the luxury of a professional painting contractor as they, along with professional plumbers, do not exist here.
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That is only a slightly stunning picture. Wow!!!
No comment on the painting instruction as Todd is the much, much more knowledgeable of the two of us.
Gorgeous home and scenery.
Eric Novotny An informed customer is the Best Customer!
4/3/2016
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That is indeed a beautiful home and location.
I would suggest trying to remove the rust as much as possible. Normally this sort of repainting would consist of a new coat of primer that is appropriate for the finish coat, followed by the finish coat. You may want to look into applying a more durable finish coat such as the air-dry PPG Aqua-Tec system.
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I am helping an Architect work on specifications for an existing school district. The current low slope roof has a guarantee, of whom I am the Sales Rep for. The school wants to change the color of the metal edge.
A large portion of the building has shop fabricated, fascia extenders. It is fastened beneath the manufactured, factory snap on fascia with extruded rail. As they can switch out the snap on fascia easily, the entire piece would need to be removed, in order to recover or remove/ reinstall new fascia extender.
The question came up as to painting a 2 coat Kynar, in the field. I've read several thoughts in these blogs, on post painting. It appears the PPG Aquapon maybe the way to go? And guessing, their looking at $3-$5 a lineal foot (6"-8" wide) plus equipment to run along the outside of the building? And the cost of the paint.
Other questions are what prep is required?
They are weighing their options as to how they want to do this. As my 26 yr. background prior to becoming a sales Rep, was in the Architectural Sheet Metal business. So I get asked to assist a lot on metal design, and installations.
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You would want to clean it well by light power washing or a mixture of water, detergent, and TSP. I would then suggest a primer and top coat. I do think the PPG Aquapon would be a good way to go.
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I have a standing seam roof, approx 100 years old that has been painted with aluminum paint in the distant past (at lest longer than 30 years ago). It has developed some rust and we would like to paint it any color other than bright whiney silver or black which is the only aluminum color available. What paint system will allow us to successfully cover this aluminum paint? Thank!
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I am sorry, I really can't answer that. The problem with recoating over many old layers is the new layer will only adhere as well as the least well adhered of all the previous layers. See what I mean? My advice would be to take some pictures and go to a quality paint store such as Sherwin Williams, show them what you're doing, and let them make a recommendation.
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Hi! We had a metal roof put on around 1997 or 1998. Two years ago it began to leak around the bathroom vent and in the back porch we enclosed. I'm trying to find a product that I can put around the bathroom vent and between the two roofs over the back porch; one lays on top of the other one so the water runs off. I'd prefer to not use black tar as we are also going to have to see about painting the roof because the beautiful blue Hawaiian color is now a light blue/gray...drab! Any ideas of a product that can seal on a metal roof? Also, what is the process to paint a metal roof?
Thanks!
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Ideally, the transition should have a metal flashing. Pipes often use flashings and also quality sealants such as butyl. If you wish, feel free to email me photos of what you have and I will try to provide more details. My email is [email protected] As far as painting, the roof will need cleaned and then primed and painted. I would suggest going to a quality paint store and using the paint system they recommend for this purpose.
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Hi! When they put the metal roof on, we didn't know it but someone put the one piece in wrong, so water eventually over time ran back behind the next piece, rotting out a section of the main roof. A family member took that section off and placed it correctly. Then the bathroom vent started leaking and they had put the rubber boot under the metal roof and not on top. Yeah, idiots! So a family member fixed that and put a sealant that Lowe's recommended. It's been about 3 years now so that is starting to crack. The only Butyl I could find in NW Florida is http://www.homedepot.com/p/DAP-10-1-oz-Flexible-Clear-Sealant-18384/100134278 On the second issue, there is flashing under the metal roof that lays on top of the secondary roof but if we get a strong thunderstorm or hurricane force winds, the rain/wind must push water under the flashing. What do you recommend for us to put between the gap between the flashing and secondary roof? A beading of chaulk? Thanks so much!
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I am sorry to hear about the issues you ran into. I think that a butyl sealant or a co-ether or poly-ether would be best. Make sur hit is applied to a clean surface. Transition flashings if mis-installed can have a negative pitch. Sounds like that might be what you had. On the other flashing ... if there is a big enough void to put metal, then that could be done and sealed in. Otherwise, just sealant.
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Our church is repainting it's flat (who did that in snow country?) metal roof on activities hall. It is, at present, white, and the paint job is pretty old. We want it to be almost black to blend in with the church and the rectory. We can't afford the $400/gallon special paint. I have an excellent painter lined up, but I'm hearing strong concern about repainting...it'll peel...so I want some strong knowledge to present, along with my painter presenting his knowledge. We will not be painting until Spring warm weather..
We are in NE Idaho with temps ranging from a few days of 90+/100 degrees to a few of near -20 in the winter. I would assume that we clean the roof with a pressure hose, prime, and paint with a good quality exterior paint. Does anything need to be sanded? My husband was repairing a leak up there, and tightening/replacing screws. He says the roof is in good shape. He was a roofer for years and a licensed building contractor in SF for years where he also painted professionally, plus a professional roofer. However, he has not worked with metal roofs in all those years.
Any reassurances/suggestions/directions, etc. will be much appreciated, and assist me greatly in soothing fears.
Thank you very much in advance,
Jesse
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Thanks much for your post. Cleaning the existing roof is certainly key. The new layer of paint will never be better adhered than any previous layers. I would suggest going to a quality paint store, trying to have them identify the type of paint on the roof now ... and let them make a recommendation as far as the method and type of repainting. It probably can be done in a durable manner but it will take the expertise of some paint people.
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Hi Todd. I live in the mountains of western Va. I have a 100 yr old house that still has the original metal roof. We have been painting it every 3-5 yrs with a aluminium fiber paint for roofs. We are thinking of repainting a differant color this year, Is there anything that I will need to do before I paint it with just paint.Thank you
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