TOPIC: I Have An Existing Metal Roof and Have A Question
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I hired a roofer to install an exposed fastener 5v Galvalume finish metal roof…. This was just months ago and during the process I pointed out several things to the contractor (owner of the roofing company and pays his own crew to install)…. My reason for choosing the roof was for its longevity when done correctly (knowing what having exposed fasteners entails later) but I fear I will have issues….. The roofer refused to look at these issues and blocked my number…..
Here are a few examples but there are fastener issues spread across the roof including split sealing washers, incorrect use of fasteners (at hips), and overnighted fasteners among other problems I see…. What are your thoughts?
Most 5V manufacturers today that I am aware of suggest fastening into the flats of the panels, not the top of the V's. This is in order to get good sealing of the fastener. Do you know who manufactured your roofing? If so, I'd suggest contacting them for their input. Otherwise, I would suggest contacting an experience metal roofing contractor to come inspect the roof and write up recommendations.
Any thoughts on the short valley, loose screws, dented hips, and caved in panels (from overtightening)? Many of the washers ARE split because of being over tightened to the rib (as you mentioned) BUT the manufacturer does recommends the fasteners be on the top of the panel ribs since the water does not get trapped there and rather flows down and out the bottom of the rib…. However at the hips they recommend riveting or short pancake screws into the panels but not the roof…. The installer used razorback ridge foam on ALL hip caps INSTEAD of butyl tape and sealing strips that the manufacturer recommends…
My main concern is longevity and from my understanding the fasteners are the weak point of my style roof…. If done correctly, the fasteners can last 20+ years but improper install cuts that significantly… Is this correct?
Also, the hip caps should be overlapped if I’m not mistaken? What about the single valley that was left short? I think it should have come to the inside corner and drip edge and trimmed at 90 degrees like the others unless I’m mistaken?
The valley is a bit short. Not sure it will be a problem. All screws should be fully seated and driven in square. Hip caps should be overlapped uphill on top of downhill. The razorback ridge vent is approved by its manufacturer for hips. I still suggest contacting the roofing manufacturer or getting a local experienced contractor to do a firsthand inspection.
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