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Wrote earlier with no response. Will try again. Existing 4/12, 1900 sf. rancher in Cottonwood AZ area. Comp. roof is shot. Would like to remove HVAC units from roof, remove comp. shingles and add standing seam. Because duct work will be in attic, I was going to have open cell spray foam applied to underside of roof sheeting/rafters. Now my question. Is there anyway to tell if adding vertical then horizontal battens on top of existing sheeting vented high and low before metal would help energy efficiency enough to offset material and labor (myself) cost? If I choose this system, would you use reflective underlayment? Would reflective underlayment work without battens? Thank you for your time,
The reflective materials with "bubble wrap" can be effective without an air gap.
The foam you're spraying is very helpful. While normally I'd suggest closed cell, you should be fine with open in your climate.
There would be nothing wrong with cross battening assuming the metal panel you're installing can go over battens. The payback would be slow but, yes, that short of thermal break and extra ventilation would be beneficial.
Do I see it as a "necessary" thing though? No.
Thanks so much.
Before you laugh or think I am crazy, I am a veteran with a severe hearing loss which also affects my balance. I just purchased a home with an old ban 30x19 where the previous owner neglected. Now I am faced with getting the barn roof repaired before December or they are going to cancel my homeowners insurance (USSA). Is it feasible to go up into the hay loft and remove a coupe bad sections of plywood from the loft area and replace the wood from the inside? I know this is a crazy question but I don'[t have 5 or so thousand to throw at it and I sure can't afford to lose my homeowners insurance. I am surprised the VA inspectors never flagged this before I purchased it. I am only using it for storage, nothing of real value. Thanks
First, thank you and bless you for your service to our country. Chances are you can't replace decking from the inside. Feel free to send me photos of the inside and outside of the roof for further input. [email protected]
We have started a remodel of a 50 year old Mobile home. The roof is basically flat with the exception of the front part which is slightly pitched front to back. Our contractor says it is ok to install a steel roof on the existing level. We are wondering if it would be better to frame out a pitched roof instead. What would you suggest?
Metal roof panels will all have a minimum required roof pitch from the manufacturer. Never ever ever install a panel at a pitch lower than recommended / required by the manufacturer.
My community has a Requirement that all roofs have an LRV of 40 or less. Is this a relevant measurement for metal roofs? Or is there an alternate measurement that measures the reflection and shine? Is this measurement readily available?
Unless I am mistaken, LRV refers to lightness and darkness of color ... so black is 100 and white is zero. So, basically, they are restricting what colors you can choose, which has nothing to do with gloss. Most metal roofing colors will have a gloss number and generally matte finishes are considered anything that is 8 or under. That may do a better job of what they want to accomplish. The Metal Roofing Alliance would be happy to consult with them in setting these standards. Keep in mind that, just like if you never washed your car, metal roofs develop some dirt and grime that diminishes gloss and sheen over time.
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