TOPIC: I Have An Existing Metal Roof and Have A Question
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Hi all... My wife and I just purchased a weekend home that has an existing (new) metal roof with snow guards and a drip edge that completely covers the 4-6 inches of the fascia. However, there are no gutters. After 2 days of watching snow melt drip down off the edge onto the deck and around the foundation, we've decided we need to add gutters to control the runoff some.
For reference, I've never done a full gutter installation before, as I'm a DIYer, but I think I'm pretty comfortable with how to do it, even if it does take me a week. I've read pretty much everything I can find on installing gutters for metal roofs in snow-country (6", k-style, mounted as high up as possible, brackets every 2 feet-ish), and I think I understand most of what we need to do.
But what I can't find is recommendations or guidelines for how to install the gutter so that the 'back' of the gutter fits up under the drip edge, providing the protection against water draining between the gutter and drip edge. Obviously, I can't add flashing under shingles like with a traditional roof and gutter install.
Photo of roofline is included for reference.
Thank you all for the fantastic reference for us non-experts.
Congrats on your new place. Wow. That's a low pitch roof.
I generally suggest installing gutters as high as possible, and installing no less than a 6" gutter from .032" aluminum. Install using fascia-mounted brackets.
Tuck the back side up under the drip and if there is any underlayment hanging over the roof beneath the drip edge, tuck the gutter behind that as well.
I'm not physically there, and won't be again until next week, but if the drip edge is attached firmly to the fascia with nails do you think I should pry it up long enough to install the gutter, or cut notches from the gutter to slide up around the nails? Part 2 of the question is, if the drip edge is so long vertically as to force the gutter to be installed lower down (allowing any the vertical length difference between the drip edge and gutter back), which variable would you recommend compromising on? The height of the gutter install, or cutting back the drip edge a bit so as to allow the gutter to be slid up more?
Again, thank you. And I recognize that it's hard to provide recommendations without actually looking at each individual case separately, so I appreciate "best practices" or thoughts.
Post up a picture of the roof edge when you get there and we will give you some directed feedback.
Like Eric said, photos would be great.
Do not cut or notch the back wall of the gutter.
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