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Help! I'm a homeowner with metal roof installation experience, but haven't run into this before. I'm in FL installing "gulf rib" (5 ribs 9" spaced) 29 ga metal on a 32' wide gable ended barn (5/12 pitch). One end of the barn is a standard 32' wide flat-ended gable with overhang; no problem there. At the other end, though, the barn narrows to 16' wide (8' per side, which is centered on the 32' wide part), so my low eave along the 32' wide part turns upward along the gable rake and runs into another eave 8' higher.
My question is: Can you explain how to finish the gable rake trim piece as it runs up into the higher eave?
In other words, how do I install / fit that lower rake trim piece such that water doesn't run down the roof and under the rake trim?
Jeff, I believe what you are describing is what I call a "flared gable," meaning that the roof is wider at the top than at the bottom. You are correct in picking up on the fact that that can be too much water and debris for the gable channel to handle as things run down the roof. For that reason, I do not suggest a normal gable trim for these situations. Sometimes I suggest what I call a "bend over" gable trim where the panels are miter cut and folded over the gable end ... but that can be tough on a through-fastened panel. You may just need to put a 90 degree channel on the gable end and put the panels on top of that, cutting them to the angle. No gable trim in other words that covers the cut edges. I would advise you to go to your supplier and ask what they recommend for flared gables. Please let me know if I can be of further service or if I have misunderstood your situation.
We have the same thing only having trouble getting angles cut correctly, any advice or how to video on cutting angles plz
I would suggest making a template of the correct angle to mark your panels. And then cut using a power shear or nibbler.
Thanks Todd. I understand your suggestion to omit the gable rake trim piece for this gable section only, and simply install what I think you mean to be an angle piece (90 deg bend, both sides flat). A standard eave drip piece might also work. I'll consider those. I have another idea which is to cut a horizontal slot in the roof panel in line with the upper eave just long enough so the gable trim piece can be slid into it. I'd cut off all of the gable rake trim piece except the horizontal flat surface, and slide that 'tab' up into the slot I cut. This would require caulking the slot joint which I was hoping to avoid, but would keep debris from catching at that location.
Not having a standard solution for this situation is frustrating! :)
Jeff, is there any way you can make a quick sketch of what you have in mind and send it to me? [email protected] Several years ago, I developed a great method for metal shingles on flared gables but roof panels like yours are a bit tricker.
Todd - Using your suggestion, I finished the installation yesterday omitting the gable rake trim piece and instead installing a standard eave drip cap along this lower gable section in question, under the roof panel as usual. So, this gable fascia looks a little different there than the others on the barn, but I think it looks perfectly acceptable, and there's no caulk required and no potential water problems whatsoever this way. We also placed butyl tape between the eave drip cap and the roof panel sitting on it (although I don't think it was actually needed at all, but what the heck - cheap insurance, we had plenty of it, and easy to do).
I'll snap a couple pictures of it and post them here the first chance I get.
Glad to hear it.
Here's a drawing of the "lower gable" in question:
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