Steve Bousquin
5/4/2017
Getting estimates on a metal roof to replace old shingles. Like another post I have fairly new T1-11 siding at roof-wall intersections. It's nailed per Florida code (4" OC at panel edges), so it will be very hard to lift at the bottom. What's puzzling is the companies are happily providing estimates but it's not clear how the flashing will be handled at the walls. Apparently the estimators expect the roofers to have the solution. Should I be concerned, or let them do their thing? I don't want a huge cost overrun to replace the siding but on the other hand I'm inclined to accept the warranty and expect them to do it right and don't want to micro-manage. Any advice or recommendations? What should I be looking for? I understand the basics - the house wrap under the siding should overlap the flashing. Are there alternatives to lifting the siding?
Todd Miller
Isaiah Industries, Inc.
5/5/2017
If left to no other specifications, many roofing technicians will bring the flashing up the wall, put a small bend outward at the top, and place sealant in the resulting channel to seal the flashing to the wall. They will then if necessary also fasten the flashing to the wall. While this can work and, in some cases, really is the best option, I would discuss other options with them including removing the siding and flashing properly behind it, cutting down the siding as needed and re-installing it. If this sort of method is not specified, expect to get something more like what I initially described. Again, in some cases, the method I described is best due to potential damage to the siding, difficulty in matching and replacing the siding, etc. But, in other cases, it will be best to do it the right way including flashing behind the siding, having house wrap come down on top of the flashing, etc.
Dick Bus
5/5/2017
Steve, thanks for considering a metal roof. I am glad that you are sweating the details. Todd is right, if left up to the contractor you may end up with a caulk joint along the wall. it is better to remove the siding, even if it new material needs to be purchased. you will end up paying now or later. Since you are concerned about the flashing details, make sure that the panels and flashing meet the requirements of the Metal Construction Association. underlayment and fasteners also deserve scrutiny.
Steve Bousquin
5/6/2017
Thanks for the replies! Dick, are the requirements of the MCA for flashing outlined somewhere? Also, in choosing a metal roof I'm sure there is variation among manufacturers as with any manufactured product. How can I explore the quality of different products on the market? Are there standards I should be looking for?
Steve Bousquin
5/6/2017
As a followup, I've been told (for shingle roofing) that the sealant-above-the-flashing approach is reliable if regular maintenance is done every couple of years on the sealant. Is this also true for metal roofing?
Steve Bousquin
5/6/2017
BTW, I don't know who else to contact - I am not getting email updates when you gentlemen post replies. Who should I contact about this?
Steve Bousquin
5/6/2017
Sorry to bother you guys with this, but I'm unable to find a contact for login problems. The only way I can log in is to go back to the original verification email, click the link, and log in there. I can't log in using my username and password except via that link. I'm also not getting email updates when replies/answers are posted by experts.
Todd Miller
Isaiah Industries, Inc.
5/7/2017
The flashing details need to come from your manufacturer. Yes, there are some best practice flashing details available but nothing should ever take precedence over the roofing manufacturer's suggested detail. As I had stated, there are occasions when exposed sealant is the best thing to resort to but it is not my preference because it does require maintenance. Most folks choose metal roofs because they do not want to have to deal with maintenance, so it seems to defeat the purpose. I am not sure why the site isn;t working right for you. If you wish, drop me an email and I will try to get you with the right person to help sort it out. My first inclination was that maybe something was up with your email address or password but your last post sure indicates that is not the case. My email address is [email protected]
Steve Bousquin
5/7/2017
Thanks Todd. I have the installation manual from the product that was spec'd in two of the quotes (Sunlast Metal Key West Series 5-V crimp) but it specifies what I believe is the standard for wall flashing as you would expect, i.e. the flashing is under the wall sheathing/siding (it's not clear which), then bends out 90 degrees over the two closest crimps on the roofing panel, so doing would involve removing the siding. Alternatives to avoid removing and replacing the existing siding are what I was looking for because of the cost. Also because of the cost it's either 5V crimp or asphalt shingles. I don't mind a reasonable level of maintenance such as inspecting/touching up a line of sealant every year or so. The roof-wall sections are not long, maybe a total of 30-50 feet. I'll send some photos later today.

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