Can I hem the rakes?

Guest User
I am going to install a standing seam metal roof on an old rock stagecoach stop we have been restoring for a couple of years. Roof is two 11' x 44' rectangles. I want to avoid the modern boxed-edge look on the rakes that you see on a lot of standing seam roofs. Is it possible to hem the rakes using a drip edge trim the same way I will be hemming the eves? I know the final edge will be a challenge to cut to the right length, but am willing to try. Also, can those panels be pre-bent to an acute angle so I can just put them on and then tighten? Or, is there a way I can bend the lengths of those panels and have them looking good when I'm done? I'm also wondering if I will be making the roof more vulnerable to wind damage by hemming the rakes? Also, for the cricket do I need to use the ridged panels or can I just use flat metal. The two triangles that form the cricket are 25x36x43 with the 25 inches being the common edge and the 36 inch sides being against the masonry structure. The salesman where I'm purchasing the materials is trying lean me toward doing this when I think just flat metal would be fine and less work. It's not going to be very visible anyway. Thanks.
Eric Novotny
An informed customer is the Best Customer!
I don't think it will make a difference on the wind resistance. You need to make sure the joint can still stile and not bind in that case as they will grow and shrink at different rates based on exposures.
David Stermer
Hi Ray, Thanks for using metal roofing. It is my belief that hemmed rake details are weaker under wind uplift than a fastened rake details. Unless you are near the coast and expected to experience high wind loads, it should be fine. Minimizing the width of the edge panel by planning the layout of the panels will help. I think the cricket could be done either way. I would come down on the side of using formed panels. Good Luck, David Stermer
Guest User
Thanks! Just to be sure, because I really don't want this roof to blow off, I've attached an image with two drawings and a close-up of the fascia from my project. The fascia has a 1.5 inch edge along the top. I'd like to avoid using the metal T drip edge with the vertical tab that drops down over the fascia. I've circled in red the part I'm talking about in the two trim examples. Basically what I'm hoping I can do is use a flat piece of metal (with a wide fold on the edge for strength?) screwed down to the 2x6 fascia from the top every 8 inches or so and then use one of the two methods in the image to attach the panels and be secure. And, whether I need the lower tab or not which method would be the best to use? I know top cut and tuck method would be far easier than the cut and hem.
David Stermer
Hi Ray, I am not a fan of the 'cut and tuck' method where the flat of the panel is cut and placed in the hem. I believe it would not be particularly weather-tight and under wind load would have little resistance to disengagement. I like direct-fastened best. It is most likely to resist wind loads. The hemmed rake seems reasonable for low wind load applications. I would recommend attaching through the vertical leg to provide support to the tongue about which the hemmed panel engages. Regards, David

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