Overwhelmed by price differences

Julie Burkett
4/4/2012
Greetings, I've been shopping for a metal roof for about 6 months now. I am completely overwhelmed with the differences in product and pricing. I've about convinced myself that a Galvalume Kyner 500 is the product for me (I never want to replace this roof and I plan to add on to the house within 10 years and want best chance at a color match). I have quotes of 9300, 15500 and 19800 all from reputable companies. This is 1340 ft of roofing with a simple roof line (i.e. think ranch 50 x 24 or so ranch including the full length front porch and adding a 15 x 30 covered deck that they are refurring (sp?). All products are Galvalume with Kynar 500. Any ideas what the cost *should* be? * What is a better product for the money and what *should* it cost a simple 1340 ft roofing project? * What is a best product and what *should* it cost for a simple 1340 ft roofing project? Are there any questions I should be asking to determine why the cost is so high for two of the estimates (or low for the other)? Thank you! Julie
Todd Miller
Isaiah Industries, Inc.
4/4/2012
Julie, If you want to send me copies of the quotes, I will try to help you sort through the differences. It would be best to email them to me at [email protected]
Eric Novotny
An informed customer is the Best Customer!
4/5/2012
Depending on base materials, consumables, and installation differences, the prices can vary quite substantially. At the end of the day, a metal roof should be the last roof you put on your home. That being said, make sure you get the right product and installation for your home. A roof is not a time to cheap out.
Julie Burkett
4/6/2012
Thanks, that's what I was thinking: I'm going to reply to the above message and would appreciate comments.
Julie Burkett
4/6/2012
Todd, Unfortunately, the quotes don't really say anything different other than the product used (and, I don't have a way to scan/email ;( ). MetalMan Roofing system with Kynar on 29ga McElroy metal with Kynar on 29ga Triad Corragated metal with Kynar on 29ga (or silicon polyester for 700 less) All with exposed fastners. As far as I can tell, with metal roofing the best warranty is to need no warranty. I base this on information gathered on the internet about claims that are denied, etc. because the warranties are written to specific tolerances. Another factor for me is that we will be adding on to the back of the house requiring all new roofing on that side within the next 5 years. What do you think about the above products? The warranties read pretty much the same to me (with Kynar being 'the best'). Thank you! Julie
Todd Miller
Isaiah Industries, Inc.
4/6/2012
Julie, I am sorry but this simply is not enough information for me to judge one over another. I am sorry. I would need to know the exact profile of roofing. If they have not specified that in the quote, shame on them! If you can get that information, please email it direct to me and I will try to help. [email protected] For several reasons, I will not judge one product or manufacturer against another in this public forum.
Eric Novotny
An informed customer is the Best Customer!
4/6/2012
Julie, Have you entertained any quotes from folks that are not selling and exposed fastener system? That would be ideal from a maintenance standpoint.
Julie Burkett
4/7/2012
I understand 100%! And I DO appreciate you're trying to help me. I'll see what I can send via email (I found a place to scan today). -- Julie
Julie Burkett
4/7/2012
Yes, each person said that will approximately double their quote!
Eric Novotny
An informed customer is the Best Customer!
4/7/2012
At nearly $700 a square on the low end (based on the information you have provided) is a bit on the high end of what I would expect for and exposed fastener and $1,400 is way more. Tough to say what the cost of doing business is in a particular area but for a few more dollars in this area, you should be able to get custom formed mechanically seamed standing seam.
Todd Miller
Isaiah Industries, Inc.
4/8/2012
I have to agree with windowsonwashington; I keep thinking I must be missing something.
Julie Burkett
4/10/2012
Good Tuesday Morning, I scanned the quotes, took photos of the roof line (to help calculate pitch) and emailed the data. I *think* I've figured the square footage mystery out. I measured everything myself and came up with: The house is: 50 ft wide with 1 ft over hang on each side. 26'2" deep with 16 inch over on the back. The front porch width of the house and ~7 ft wide including the 16 inch over hang. The back deck roof (20 wide x 20 long) -- but has very, very small pitch so prone to leaking in the past. Figuring a 5.5 12 pitch for the house (that's what I came up with from the photo), that all ends up being about 2315 sqft of roofing. Which goes along with the less expensive guy saying his quote ends up being ~3.56 per sqft). I talked with the less expensive guy; I asked again about non-exposed fasteners and he confirmed it would about double the price. He said he ordered the metal (I did sign a quote with him contingent upon my insurance company approving installation over shingles -- which they did) and went with the Sylicon Polyester assuring me that he has had no issues with fade, chalk, peeling, etc. from Triad Corregated Metals. I'm a little nervous about not going with Kynar but, in reality, I DO plan to replace the entire back side which is the southern exposed side in about 5 years. The questions I have piled up to ask today (still in my 3 day resention or whatever that is): * For the back deck: The expensive company was going to: build up on my existing rafters by adding a wedge to them to make 2 inch pitch, then put 2x4s for furlings (sp?), then OSB, then tar paper, then metal. The new edges would be sealed with wood and covered in house wrap but not siding. While the less expensive guy was going to: putting 2x4s each foot or so (rafters are 5 ft apart) and then metal (the 300 fee is to remove the existing 1x2 furlings (sp?) and replace with 2x4s and close off the ends again). These are my questions for the less expensive guy: - You mentioned caulking all seams since it is a 1 12 or 2 12 pitch. Can you confirm the sheets will be 20+ feet long so only side seams to be concerned with? - What is the cost to make the edges of the roof go out another 6 inches on each side and add a facial board (intent is to help keep rain from hitting the ledge at the railing)? - You mentioned you would add the insulation between the metal and 2x4 slats you're adding. Will that in any way increase the likelyhood of screws getting lose and causing leaks? If so, I'd just soon add plywood or OSB as well. - Does back have drip edge? If not what is the additional cost? - Does side have rake trim? If not what is the additional cost? * For the rest of the house: - Do you plan to strip out the whole roof or just sections or none? * What fastners will you use for stripping (I heard the wrong nails could damage the metal covering)? * Will the stripping be smooth or rough cut (I heard rough cut could damage the metal covering)? * Will the felt go under or over the strips? === Are there any other questions I should be asking :)>! Thanks! Julie
Guest User
6/11/2012
I have a utility shed that is approxmatey 14X12 and the roof is about 18 years old. it just has a standard Owens Corning roof and it has about a dozen or so missing shingles. time to replace...wife likes the vertical metal roof. Is this a good selection and what kind of price per square should i expect. I will be installing to roof myself.
Eric Novotny
An informed customer is the Best Customer!
6/11/2012
Pricing can vary on the materials from location to location. I am guessing you are going with a clip lock style?

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