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TOPIC: General Discussion

first two roofers came...they have different opinions.

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I am going to be brief and too the point. Old Cedar shake rook in Alaska, hot roof. Going to convert it. 1 - As for sealing the T&G (it's 2x6 I think) one guy says save money and just use 3mil plastic. Second says use Ice/Water for better seal. 2 - They feel R38 (I think 2 layers of Poly boards either 2-3 inches thinck). One suggested just one layer, but I suggested two. I am gussing even at R38 in AK that is desirable. 3 - There is a garage aded on to the house. It has an attic. The rest of the roof is hot as stated. Going to use 2x4 on edge to create a cold roof. One guy was very concerned about connecting the venting from the Attic of the gardge to vent on the main roof. He mentioned (whirly somethings (3 of them) to help with the venting (as well as the ridge vet). The other roofer felt the two roofs wouldn't be connected in any way regarding venting .... that confused me? The garage roof ties into the house roof so it is connected literally...not sure if the venting needs to work together or not? Thanks in advance for your thoughts a suggestions. I attached a pic of the roof. The left two are cold, with attic space.In the attic you can actually see the roofing?shingles of the hot roof that was just covered up)
Louis The

4/10/2010
Once you create the cold roof, using ice and watershield is good. R38 at least would be good. I would keep the two attics separate and would use soffit vents for intake and ridge vent for exhaust. I would not use turbine vents in conjunction with ridge vent as the turbines will just pull air from the ridge vents. Todd Miller
Todd Miller
Isaiah Industries, Inc.

4/11/2010
The roof line is split, but the attic space inside is actually continuous. If I understand what you are saying you are talking about the actual roofing setup. So, build up the part of the attic roof that attaches to the main house to incoporate sofit intakes and ridge vents like the main house roof will be (once converted from hot to cold)? Then the roof over the garage itself can remain the same with normal ventilation but the open attic and no ridge vents?
Guest User

4/12/2010
Think this ended up being addressed in the other thread. Hopefully I got it right now. At least it makes sense to me now. Thanks.
Guest User

4/12/2010
Okay, so another company came out. They are known to be a little high priced, but also have a very good reputation. Anyway, this new company was the first I’ve seen actually to take pictures. He was also the first one to crawl up in the attic to see where the attic space meet the hot roof. I re-read that link from you [email protected] Seems logical, and I think that's what the others planned on doing for the most part. What this new guys said he’d probably recommend would be 1x9’s or something similar mounted on edge with U brackets fastening them to the T&G. He felt that would allow enough space for two layers of 3" Polyicen (sp?) for an R38. It would leave just about an inch air gap for ventilation. Thoughts on that method verse using 2x4s (around the perimeter of building and between the Foam) to anchor the deck too? Also, if I understand correct they will just cut holes in from the attic to bled it into the main roof for ventilation. Despite how it looks in the image I attached the other side of the roof is all one level from the front of the garage until it attaches to the main roof. Lastly, almost everyone up here who looked at my house is questioning my wanting metal. They say because of the 9:12 pitch, and massive amount of deck and walkway under the sloped roof, and our heavy snowfall, I will end up regretting the decision. Both from a safety and snow removal point of view. Said snow brakes mostly just break up the snow that falls, doesn’t stop it overall. Thoughts?
Guest User

4/15/2010