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I am getting ready to reroof a cabin with a pitch of 1:12. My local roofing contractor recommended a 29 gauge steel roof, standing seam. Apparently this is 38" wide strips that go from ridge to gutter and interlock with adjoining panels. He said there are large ribs every 9" with two smaller ribs in between. His initial recommendation was to install over the existing shingles but due to past roofing problems I want the shingles and tar paper removed, so I can inspect the deck, flashing, and replace rotting plywood. In this case He said he would install 30# felt on the decking before installing the metal roof. My questions; does this sound like a good plan for this roof pitch? Are there any special precautions to prevent leaks where the panels join? Does the roofing felt and ribs provide adequate ventilation or should I be worried about condensation between the roof and the decking?
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Due to the extreme low pitch of this roof, I really think that you need to choose a product and then contact its manuifacturer to receive their input for the particular situation you have. Generally, though, I'd suggest a non-asphalt "slip sheet" between the metal and the decking rather than a 30-pound felt. I am concerned the felt will "melt" and adhere to the back of the metal panels and then tear as the metal expands and contracts.
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A common slip sheet is red resin paper. It would be installed on top of the normal underlayment. Red resin paper is available from most roofing distributors as well as larger home centers and lumberyards. Also, there are some non-asphaltic underlayments that can be used. These are typically polyethylene-based materials and they can often serve as the underlayment and the slip sheet. A couple of brand names for these products are RoofGuard and TriFlex 30.
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We have a carport with a slight pitch, it has leaked and rotted our plywood decking. Our contractor is recommending using 30# sheathing felt and ice 7 water shield roof underlayment over new OSB plywood decking before placing 29G metal roofing. What is your opion on this?
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There are two bits of information I don't know and they're both very important:
1) What is the roof pitch?
2) What type of roofing (exactly) do you plan to use and / or what minimum pitch does the manufacturer suggest?
The best thing you can do is adhere to the manufacturer's recommendation and do not go on the assumption that the self-adhering ice and watershield will make up for installing the roofing on too low of pitch. Ice and watershield is good stuf but don't ask it to perform in situations it should not be put in to begin with.
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This is a follow up on my previous question. I am placing 29G metal roofing over one layer of asphalt shingles. The only problem is with the carport which is built on the side of my home. The pitch is 3;12. Do you think with the ice and water shield roof underlayment and metal roof, this is a good solution? Thanks.
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3:12 should be adequate pitch for the product you are installing. Again, check with the manufacturer but the good news is that it should be fine.
The bad news is that, to the best of my knowledge, none of today's commercially available ice and watershield type products is intended for application over existing shingles. They all specify that they must be applied directly to the roof decking. Their concern is that, if a fastener (to secure the roofing) goes through the ice and watershield and then hits a "void" between the shingle tabs, it will stretch the material and the watertight seal around the fastener will be broken.
As a result, realizing the risk involved as described above, you might consider using an extra safety layer of a different underlayment on top of the ice and watershield, such as one of the new poly-based underlayments or a layer of 30-pound felt. If you use a layer of 30-pound felt, I would use a slip sheet on top of it such as red rosin paper or one of the poly-based underlayments.
With a 3:12 pitch, maybe you don't even need the ice and watershield in the first place but there's certainly no harm in it at all, provided you take into consideration this possible problem with it being put over old shingles. (Of course, another option would be to strip the old shingles in that 3:12 area.)
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I live in down town St Marys Ga in the historic area. at the present time i have asphalt shingles. would you attesapate any problems with a metal roof . Send me some inforamation
Ed Marx
102 East Weed St.
St Marys Ga.3158
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I have a 4:12 pitch on my house and would like to put on a 7' farmers porch. This gives me a 2.5:12 pitch to work with. Can I put the Oxford roof covering on this in the Northeast.
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With the wide variety of products available in metal roofing, there is virtually always something that will be approved by historic control boards.
The big thing is that, when you go for approval, you need to make sure that you have plenty of information including photos of the product you want to install.
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Most of the shingle style products are limited to a 3:12 pitch. However, there are occasions when particular applications will allow the manufacturer to permit applications at slightly lower pitch.
It sounds like you're referring to the "Oxford Shingle" product. That is manufactured by my company.
Please contact me so we can discuss your application.
Todd Miller
Tel. 1-800-543-8938 ext 201
www.classicroof.com
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I have a low pitch, 1.5 in 12, roof over a porch extending from a house with asphalt shingles. Presently, it has a tourch down on it. Can I put a standing seam metal roof on the porch roof and over the tourchdown? I live in the Seattle area. We may have snow once or twice a year. If so, how do I blend the asphalt shingle unto the metal roof?
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I have a low pitch, 1.5 in 12, roof over a porch extending from a house with asphalt shingles. Presently, it has a torch down on it. Can I put a standing seam metal roof on the porch roof and over the torchdown? I live in the Seattle area. We may have snow once or twice a year. If so, how do I blend the asphalt shingle unto the metal roof?
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Some standing seams are suitable for that low pitch. You will need a product with a fairly high (1.75" or higher) seam and I think it would be good to have butyl sealant in the female portion of the seam. Other than that, you could go to a mechanically seamed product. These are suitable for lower pitches because you actually run a seaming machine down the rib after the products are installed.
Use this website to contact and inquire with various manufacturers.
For the transition, you will need a matching metal flashing that goes under the asphalt and comes out on top of the metal. It should extend out over the metal at least 4 - 6". The standing seam panels will be closed off with a "Z" channel and the metal flashing will attach to it. This flashing must be mounted high enough above the pitch change that it maintains a positive pitch angle when it comes out on top of the metal.
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