constant leaking under a newer metal roof

Melody Morse
We own a 1973 double wide with an addition. 7 years ago a metal roof was installed (by a roofer for inlaws) over original metal roof. 3/4" foam insulation was put down, then 1 x 4s, then tar paper and then the strips of 2 ft wide interlocking metal roofing. The roof is low pitched with the addition an even lower pitch. Roofing was installed in a continuous run over both roofs with the center between the roofs floating. Snow? caused the center to sag and leaking to occur over the addition. 3 vents are on the upper roof, with two of those vents coming up through the seams of the metal. Not in the flat center area. 1st repair - caulking, 2nd repair - caulking, 3rd repair - caulking, I tore out all the damaged sheetrock and insulation in the addition. 4th repair -crimping up the top of the metal under the ridge cap, putting 1 x 4/s and plywood and tar paper horizontally over the seam of the two roofs, trying to match the pitch, 5th repair - cutting off the metal at the seam, replacing 4 x 8 rottom wood roof of addition, applying torchdown to the addition, running the torchdown up under the metal for a few feet, going around the edge of the whole metal roof and installing 2 - 3/4 inch screws (?? to keep the wind from blowing up?)Noted that when the metal was removed for repair that tarpaper was torn and not holding back any water that would come through. 6th repair - ? I've about had it. Noticed mold on ceiling of addition under insulation. At the seam of the two roofs, over lights, and at the bottom of the addition roof. Replaced those 3/4 inch screws with 2 inch screws coated in caulk(including where the metal roof meets the addition's torchdown), water started dripping in the corner of the room. sprayed mold with clorox, fans to dry, rained, noticed mold restarting. Roofers called - again. --- solutions they suggest change daily. 1. Run another line of torchdown under the seam of the two roofs, I requested they do not replace the 2 inch screws at the seam of the two roofs 2. Run that torchdown all the way up to the peak of the roof, replace metal strips of roofing, repair corner edging where water is wicking back up, repair another edge where seam is at and also the leak that continues in the addition. The water leaks one foot in from the edge of the roof and they stated it is blowing in. Questions - *Because of the low pitch could the ridge at the top not be wide enough for water wicking, etc? *Can the metal go over the torchdown or will it cause additional leaks when the screws to hold the metal down are put back in place? *How long are they obligated to repair this roof? *They are now asking if I can contribute part of the cost. *I've now found out the torchdown should have been "painted" (silver seal?) after one year - are they suppossed to come back and do that? *The eaves are exposed between the two roofs and there are no leaks under the original metal roof. *Would having torchdown go all the way up to the peak of the roof, in the area over the addition, stop the leaks that are obviously dripping down under the existing torchdown on the addition? *Because no sun would hit it, would the covered torchdown need to be painted also? *How can I check to see if they had a permit to do all this and if none, what recourse do I have? Thank you - any advice will help.
Mike Thomson
I'm not 100% sure, but the striping should have been put down before the foam board. After the striping is down cut the foam board to fit between the striping. If you have a snow load problem, 16ga galvanized hat sections should have been used for striping. A rool vent to fit the metal roof profile should have been used before placing the ridge row. If the panels are exposed fastner there should be two sided tape on every lap. If the panels are some form of snap seam placed over striping and the roofers don't have years of experiance, you might consider using 14x7/8 lap screws on 20" centers on all laps. The taper of this screw will pull the panels together. Sounds like a part time roofer. Mobile home roof over work best with an exposed fastner panel with a lot of seame tape and "lap" screws. Use at least 84 screws per square.
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