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We have a stilt home with hip roof, 7/12 pitch, 40ft x 50ft, second floor is the living area with a wrap-around porch on two sides under the roof that is 10 ft deep also with soffitt vents. We have contracted an MRA roofer to install a white 24 gauge Kynar 500 1 3/4" tall standing seam roof with ice/water shield over our plywood decking. We chose Kynar 500 and white to be the most energy efficient in the summer. The attic is tall enough that I need a 12 ft ladder to reach the area near the ridge where the turbine vents used to be. Two summers ago we replaced one turbine with a solar powered 20cfm roof vent on the north face. The electric bill during the summer went down 200 kwh per month! The roofer tells us no ridge vent and advises we replace the other turbine on the east side with another solar powered vent during the reroof. Now to my questions. During the extremely wet winter, will I be adding condensation to the attic with so much ventilation? Will we be sucking the accumulated heat from the attic that could be helping keep the house warm? I know the roof will emit the attic heat by itself, and increasing the rate of heat loss in the winter sounds counterproductive. Install only one? Install two? Let them run year-round? Thermostatically control them only in winter? I want to be energy efficient in the short winter we have and as it is a humid, chill-you-to-the-bone type of coastal cold, I am afraid I'll start a mold problem by being ignorant. Or send the winter gas bill into the stratosphere...
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Attic condensation problems, when they exist, are actually the result of inadequate ventilation. The moisture originates in the house not outside. Insulationon top of your ceilings is helpful in the winter but in light of everything you've said what you're doing is good for winter performance as well.
7/11/2008
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7/12/2008
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