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Tool to remove panels

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Guest User
6/21/2008
We have a 3 year old Fabral SSR 1 & 1/2 roof over SIP panels and 2x4 purlins. Our original installer completely botched the job not hemming on edges, not using the correct eave and gable trim and of course not finishing the dormer valleys correctly. We are currently doing a complete tear off of the front of the house where the dormers and chimney penetrations are as well as replacing all of the eave and gable trim. Our new roofing contractor has not installed this system before and we are relying on Fabrals detailed installation guide and calls to their representative to answer questions. This is kind of a hybrid DIY project in that the contractor and I are working together. Is there a tool we can use to release the snap over on the panels so we can salvage them? We were able to salvage some on the porch roof by sliding the panels off the clips after the top screws were removed. Unfortunately, this method won't be possible on the next section of the roof since the panels will hit the porch underlayment and are too long to support from the other side of the roof. Any ideas or help would be appreciated.
Todd Miller
Isaiah Industries, Inc.
6/22/2008
I am unaware of any such thing. Sorry. Have you posed this question to Fabral?
Guest User
6/23/2008
No, but I guess that will be our next step. It looks like once you get it started, you can zip it off kind of like a tire bead.
Todd Miller
Isaiah Industries, Inc.
6/24/2008
Bill Croucher is the "knows everything" guy at Fabral.
Guest User
6/24/2008
Brad, You can unseam the panels on the drip edge, this will let the panel lift up on one side when you start at a gable end. We then use a flat bar and just pop the clips up, screws and all. We can usually slide the panel off of the other one. Sometimes it takes a lot of pulling. The hard part is getting all of the clips out of the sheets after they are apart, but really, it isn't that bad.
Guest User
6/26/2008
Thanks Wade, We were able to slide them off the porch but the upper panels can't be slid down since they would run into the porch roof and slid up, they would bend because they are too long to support from the other side of the roof (saltbox style house). We ended up unhooking the panels with a zipper at the bottom and working up. Some come off reusable and some don't. We've bought all new metal for that side but it would be nice to save as much as possible for future projects or additions.
Todd Miller
Isaiah Industries, Inc.
7/13/2008
Thanks for touching back with us Brad
Guest User
8/21/2008
It has been a challenge for our contractors but it is finally finished. I and they have learned a few things in the process. Fabral's instructions say not to install the clips directly onto 7/16" sheeting so we went back with 2x4 purlins. In a conversation with Bill Croucher @ Fabral, he said just use more clips. Oh well, I hope this helps someone else. On the other hand, without the purlins, installation would heve been difficult on a 12/12 pitch. Another lesson is that we stripped the roof completely down to OSB and installed Grace Water & Ice Shield over the entire roof. My experience is that the purlins negated the utility of the water and ice shield since they act as dams and cause water to back up until it finds a nail hole. Maybe now that the roof is buttoned up again, it will provide some protection down the road. I think we could have done just as well with felt under the purlins. The last lesson is that the Fabral SSR 1&1/2 product (and likely all other true standing seam systems) is incredibly time consuming and labor intensive if you have dormers or chimney penetrations. On the plus side, it gave us a chance to install snow/ice blocks which will help save our gutters, let us use our garage, and allow us put some landscaping around the house that won't be crushed by falling snow and ice. Brad
Nate Libbey
8/21/2008
I have always wondered about the effects of purlins when used with other underlayments. Interesting. And dormers definately do slow down a roofer.
Guest User
8/23/2008
Nate, We also cut vertical rain grooves into the purlins to let the water get past. Unfortunately, before the roof was buttoned up, we got a downpour and lots of leaks. Our home has SIPs for the roof and walls so we only had leakage inside at the SIP joints. One other consideration was that some of the OSB on the SIPs had rotted and needed to be replaced. We used a special 3M foam adhesive but I feel better with the purlins over the top to help hold the OSB patch on. If only the first contractor would have taken the time to do it right or simply backed out of the job. I had no idea how complicated it really is to do a standing seam roof, even after studying Fabrals installation guide.
Guest User
8/23/2008
Brad, With everything nice and tight you shouldn't have any water under the metal to dam up.
Todd Miller
Isaiah Industries, Inc.
8/26/2008
Thanks.
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