Repair of a Corrugated Metal Roof on an Old Barn

Michael Maestranzi
6/11/2008
To Whomever This May Concern: I received an opportunity to repair an old barn roof. The roof is the original from about fifty to sixty years ago. The owner would like it repaired without it being costly. The panels are 10ftx26in. Some of the panels have tears in them, but for the most part are in decent condition. The nails that have been used are popping out. I have been doing research on solutions to repairing the roof and I have reached a wall, so to speak. I was hoping that you could answer my questions. Below I have provided some links with a couple of pictures showing the roof. http://img138.imageshack.us/img138/774/fredfeldmanbarnroofrl4.jpg http://img138.imageshack.us/img138/6844/fredfeldmanbarnroofclossf0.jpg My questions are: 1. How do I figure out the thickness or gauge of the metal without trial and error? Is there a tool? Is there a standard gauge for roofs? 2. A person has suggested retrofit screws, would you recommend the same? 3. How am I to be sure of the material used? I believe that it is aluminum. 3. Are there any more recommendations you might suggest? Thank you. Sincerely, Michael Maestranzi
Michael Maestranzi
6/11/2008
This is an edit to my previous message: There is no roof deck under the metal roof. In fact, nailer boards are underneath the metal roof. I would guess they are 1x8 spaced about a 1 1/2ft apart. -mjmaestro
Todd Miller
Classic Products, Inc.
6/11/2008
You would need a micrometer or calipers to check the metal thickness. The roof is probably either aluminum or steel. Steel will be magnetic. Aluminum will not. You can re-screw the roof with caphead screws witrh washers. Use a larger diameter screw than the original ones.
Guest User
6/12/2008
Todd Miller: Thank you for your expertise. I appreciate it. On another note for clarification, the original roof was not held down with screws, but spiral nails (as opposed to ring nails). This accounts for leaks through nail holes. This leads into the next question. What do you suggest? Hammering in the nails and screwing in the screws only a few per panel? Caulking the nail holes? Do you have any other options you could suggest. Also, (speaking from inexperience) since there is no roof deck could I suggest getting rid of the excess metal due to the rips and covering the panel with a new panel. In other words, there would be a new panel on top of the old panel; a double coverage so to speak. I am afraid this might be inexperience talking. What would you suggest? -mjmaestro
Guest User
6/12/2008
Measure the height of the corrugations and the width of the corrugations from the middle of one rib to the other. There are companies on this website that make a corrugated panel. You can research their profiles and probably find one that matches or comes close to matching the panels you have. If you can match the panels, I would remove the old one instead of going over it. I also would replace the nails with screws with neoprene washers. The nails are in the high part of the corrugation, if you put a screw in place of it, it is very easy to overtighten the screw and dent the panel.
Todd Miller
Classic Products, Inc.
6/22/2008
Wade's advice is good. Remove the old panels. Use quality caphead screws with rubber washers.
Guest User
6/23/2008
Todd, How effective is Butyl Tape in sealing side laps of the metal panels? Does Butyl caulking do the equivalent job? Does Butyl Tape extend to protecting from the wind?
Todd Miller
Classic Products, Inc.
6/24/2008
They are helpful but you need to make sure you have good contact. Butyl caulk or tape will work. Tape is a little easier to work with Caulk though is probably more foolproof.
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