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Generally speaking both systems are descibed as "Hydro Kinetic" which relies on the movement of water to protect.
Asphalt shingles as do some granular coated metal shingles have an advantage as the stone stops water migration from siphoning as it has air breaks.
Painted metal however is slightly differant in that one must make sure their is no chance for the water to siphon.
Having said all that, there are 2 type of flashing require to work properly on any roof system, Flashing and Counter flashing as it is typically require at the junction of vaious building changes and differnt materials etc which require differential movements.
Fisrt you need a flashing that takes you from the roof up and then a counter flashing over fastened to the wall. Generally the details of "counter Flasing are identical between the products, however metal has an advantage where it can be bent up as the flashing.
Interesting that most roofs systems rely on metal in their flashing details.
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please describe the method of counterflashing into a concrete block wall witth cement stucco,and also a 2x8 frame wall with 1/2"plywood, 15# felt,wire lath and cement stucco at 90 degrees to the roof.
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I am assuming you are not talking about new construction as there you would have counter flashings nnstalled before the roof and stucco and stuccoed in. Then a flashing is bent up and tucked underand transitioned down and over the metal.
In re-roof ap[plications it is best to preserve the existing counterflashing and tuck the new flashing up under it especially on the wood frame assembly.
If the stucco is in good shape, then you cxan use a surface mounted flashing with a reverse 45 degree bend out at the top. You fill the reglet with a high quality caulking. This works good on the masonry in all cases.
If the stucco is poor on the wood assembly, you should cut the stucco back and tuck a counter flashing up under it making sure it is behind the felt.
Hope this helps.
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Is there flashing available for connecting a corragated metal roof to a pre-existing compostion roof.the addition will be a low pitch roof.Something that would be able to be placed under the compostion shinglesand that would overlap the metal roof.
dcm
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Is there flashing available for connecting a corragated metal roof to a pre-existing compostion roof.the addition will be a low pitch roof.Something that would be able to be placed under the compostion shingles and overlap the metal roof.
.
dcm
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The manufacturer of your corrugated roofing might have a pre-formed flashing for this or you may have to buy matching metal stock and custom form it.
Be sure to fasten it up high enough on the shingle roof that, when you come out on top of the corrugated, you do not create a negative pitch on the flashing. Some sort of sealant or metal or foam closure strip should be applied in the void areas between the flashing and the metal panels.
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It depends on the product, size and location of the opening. Fist off I strongly recommend that you contact the manufacturer of the metal roofing you are intending to use.
If you you have no luck, contact me directly with the additional information and I can try to help you out. ([email protected]).
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Imagine a single story wing of a home with a standing seam copper roof abuitting a brick veneer wall for the two story sectioni of the house. Woudl the roof need to be flashed with step flashing because of the brick?
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In some way, the flashing should be inserted into the masonry wall if at all possible. This can be done by traditional step flashing or by making a saw cut into the wall and inserting a continuous flashing into it.
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There are approved flashing details that run up along the brick wall that are formed with an outward turned 1/2" upper flang that leaves a reglet for caulking. This is called a gum edge detail. Be sure that the brick is in good shape and does not leak and that it is clean. Use a good quality long life butyl base caulking.
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Best is to always call the manufacturer.
There is a product called Master Flash that is a coned rubber boot that can be moulded to fit on the profile while cutting out the approprate size hole in the top. For electrical masts they make a split one that bolts together.
While they do make larger boots for chimneys, you may want to split sheet the larger penetrations. Inthe case of a turbine vent, run the sheet half way up the opening and cut the half hole out. Then install the vent over and then cut the upper sheet around so that it come top the bottom of the flashing base.
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My home is cedar tongue and groove siding. I added a small 9 x 12 room to which I am installing metal a V5 Crimp roof. Due to the fact that it is a wood tongue and groove siding, it is difficult to pry open and slide the pitch break behind it. I see it may be possible to install the pitch break over the wood siding using the counter flashing with a tube sealant. Your advice please.
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I am trying to find how to best seal where the ridge cap of a dormer meets the main roof and top of the dormer valley.
Dormer & main are both 12-12 pitch, covered with raised rib metal. The valley is okay, but it's at the top where things get tricky. It seems that the ideal solution would be a stamped piece of metal especially designed for this application. Are there such things, and if so how do I find them? If not, do I need to resort to soft metal (lead) to flash from under the main roof panels, over the valleys and dormer ridge?
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Flashing behind the siding is ideal. The sealant method may be what you want to resort to though rather than rmeove all of the siding. If the siding is thick enough, perhaps you can make a saw cut into it and insert your flashing into the sawcut and then seal it. If you just bring the siding up the wall and seal it, you may need a heavier barstock of matching metal to create a termination bar. The termination bar would be screwed into the wall, through the flashing, to hold it tight against the wall.
9/17/2002
Dura-Loc Roofing Systems, Inc.
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Isaiah Industries, Inc.
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Dura-Loc Roofing Systems, Inc.
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Dura-Loc Roofing Systems, Inc.
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Isaiah Industries, Inc.
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