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Hi,
I purchased a log home in Utah almost a year ago. The roof at that time, had been re-done 3 years ago by the home owner with a traditional asphalt shingle. There was numerous signs of water damage on the inside unerneath where the dormers are located. I had hoped that the leaks had been fixed at that point, but in the last month and 3 feet of snow, I have had multiple problems with leaks. The roof is barn style with three dormers on the front with steep pitches on each side. Below the dormers a gradual pitched roof spreads out from there. Not sure exactly the pitch, due to the fact this is all new to me. The dormers get ice dams on the top, drip down the steep pitched sides and create ice dams that back up to the flashing and I'm assuming thats where the water comes in at. I have had one contractor say that metal can't sufficiently seal the dormers and I do have neighbors that have metal roofs and have problems with ice dams ripping the roof up. I also have no ventilation on my roof and have been told I should build a roof over my existing roof to create a cold roof. The previous owners I have been told spent alot of time shoveling the snow off of the front section and I recently had to chip and blow torch off all the ice dams to clear the roof. I don't want to spend the money and still be a slave to this roof. I would appreciate any insight. One neighbor told me metal shingles was the way to go?
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First one needs to understand that whether yoou are putting on an ashphalt shingle roof, concrete tile roof, wood shingle roof etc, they all use metal flashing so it is unfair to say that one can not flash a metal roof properly. Certainly the vertical rib metal sheets require a little more attention to detail.
Ice dams are created by either interior heat loss or the sun melting the snow which runs down the roof and freezes when it hits a colder area. If the lower roof is an unheated porch roof then it will freeze and start backing up. The overhangs of the roof are also typically colder especially if the roof is not vented properly. Once ice gets a foot hold under any roof covering, the constand freeze and thaw will tear the roofing off.
It sounds like the former owners had a problem and thought that a metal roof would correct the proble. My saying is that a properly installed metal roof will go a long way to treat the symptoms but not necessarily be the cure for everything.
The building codes call for a roof assembly that has an interior air barrier and an exterior moisture barrier and that the space between the insulation and roof covering be vented. For a vaulted ceiling such as a log home, they require a minimum if 1" vented vertical free air space in the US and 1.5" in Canada. I doubt that your place has this.
Temporary solution is to install heater cables on the roof in the valleys and areas of ice damining ensuring that the cables lead into the trough and down to the ground so that the water can melt and get off the roof.
Long term I would check out the insulation level of your home and consider reroofing the home incorporating additional insulation, ventilation and a proper moisture barrier such as an ice and water shield at least in the critical areas. Depending on the type of product you may be able to reuse what you have.
12/21/2005
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12/22/2005
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