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Copper flashing

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Guest User
9/18/2005
Residential by window roof application, standing seam copper roof. How do I handle the joint between standing seam copper and siding above my bay window? ( Approximately eight feet in total length, some flat, some sloping downward.) Sorry if this has already been answered somewhere; I did look for it.
Guest User
9/18/2005
Oh yeah, and where do I find resin paper to install under the copper?
Allan Reid
Dura-Loc Roofing Systems, Inc.
9/19/2005
The best adice is toi contact the manufacturer of the copper roofing. They should have instalation details and a supply of resin paper. Second to that then go to our member manufacturers and ask any of them that make a similar product.
Guest User
9/21/2005
Thanks, Mr. Reid, for answering! This is SO helpful. However, there is no manufacturer of the copper roofing ... uh, I am a true DIYer who purchased his copper on eBay (rolled 120" pieces, 16 oz.) who plans to borrow a local furnace installer's brake and seamer to form the male/female bends and do the install. If it goes well, I'd like to go commercial, installing for others, which is why I'm doing my own bay window roof as a test. I will go to your member manufacturers for the resin paper. But back to the joint between double lock, standing seam, if I just step flash underneath the outer layer I'll direct water under the roof I'm installing. If I step flash on top of the standing seam, that means each piece of step flashing must be shaped to fit over the standing seams they cross. Never having seen this done, nor having seen an example leaves me somewhat ... uh, well ... ignorant.
Allan Reid
Dura-Loc Roofing Systems, Inc.
9/22/2005
You can go to the National Roofing Contractors Association (NRCA) and they have general practice metal roofing manuals for sale or go to the sheet metal association who have even more detailed installation instructions. Fact is roofing or the counter flashing is best up under the siding and the exterior moisture barrier. Carefully cut the siding along a line parallel with the roof surface, taking care not to cut the moisture barrier. I would then form the roof sheets so they bend up under at least 2-3". You can then install a J mould on the cut edge of the siding making sure it drains out each end.
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