Jim B
7/7/2005
I am living in new construction (started 7/02). The contractor who installed the standing seam on the house claimed that he thought I meant 'ag metal' when he quoted me an install price. Because he's an upstanding guy, he did what I believe to be a professional job anyway (he did mention that the 24 ga steel was rough on he and his brake). Now that the garage is up, I want him to do that roof too. . .but my GC indicated that the sub doesn't want to do it. Basically looking for input here. . .how agressivly (how much $ should I throw his way) should I try to get him to do the job? Or should I attempt to do it myself? I'm a computer guy, but I have worked with my GC alot and I am currently installing the Hardi board siding. If I do the job myself, any thoughts on a brake for the heavier steel? Jim PS - All the roofs are either plywood or OSB, the house roof had 30# and the garage roof is completely Ice and Water Shield (should I remove the overlap so as to reduce oil canning?) the soffits are vented at the eaves, faced R38 above the drywall, plans for gable vents and vented Fabral ridge vent.
Todd Miller
Isaiah Industries, Inc.
7/7/2005
I am a little confused, which is nothing new. And I am sorry if I have scared you. My wife says I can be a little frightening. Anyway, the picture you attached looks pretty good. That is not what I would call an ag sheet. So, the guy quoted ag sheet but then ended up installing something else? It sounds like your basic question is whether DIY would be something you'd want to consider. If you don't DIY, I would suggest contacting the manufacturer of the roofing and asking them who they have in your area that is experienced with their products. DIY is probably a good possibility. See what instructions the manufacturer has. See if they offer pre-made flashings so that maybe you'd have to do very little jobsite bending, or perhaps none at all. You definitely do not want to take out the overlap in your underlayment. This stuff can shrink a bit over time. Expect some time to be involved in DIY. If you do need special flashings made, just go to a local sheet metal shop and have them bend what you need. It shouldn't cost much and yet really be much easier for you. Have I helped at all?
Guest User
7/7/2005
LOL, Todd, sorry about the confusion. The scare comes from the fact that I have had no problems with the residential job that was done for me. . .but it sounds like a lot of people here have had problems. To be blunt, I REFUSE to let someone do the work when they have obviously never done it before. I might as well do it at that point. . .I obviously care a lot more than they would. What scares me is this. . .if there are guys and gals out there that actually charge for the work that do such a bad job, how bad am I going to screw it up? I have been studying the Fabral technical stuff, and the supplier is helping me out a lot too. To answer your question . .absolutly you helped! I was the one that was gonna cut the overlap on the ice & water shield, remember? PS. You don't want to come to NY and do my garage do you? LOL, and if so, do you mind putting the rest of the siding up in the gable? It's only like 35' up?? PSS Since you're so helpful, I'm gonna push my luck and ask one more tech question . . . where the dormer roof comes back to meet the garage roof. . . run the standing seem peak to eave, placing it under the dormer roof overhang, or run it only up to the dormer roof overhang, then go two piece with valley trim??
Jim B
7/7/2005
Dang, for bein a 'puter guy, I just messed up that attachment.
Jim B
7/7/2005
:S
Todd Miller
Isaiah Industries, Inc.
7/7/2005
Heehee. Thanks for your posting. I will pass on the opportunity to roof your home. For a couple of reasons (fear of falling), my roof scrambling days are behind me. That is a whole other story though. Anyway, between you and me, I will always feel better about a DIYer installing their own metal roof than I will about a guy who has thrown down comp shingles for 25 years going out and trying to put down metal for the first time. (Okay, I guess I just shared that with the world bu that's okay.) I am not positive I understand your question about the dormer situation. I picture might help but, generally, I would say try to run the panel as one piece. Take care.
Jim B
11/17/2005
Just call me MrPro {crastinator} I actually started the SSR on the porch roof, but then it started getting cold here in NY so I had top get firewood. Anyway, one new question: What tool do I use to crimp the SSR seams together? And to go back to my old question: Do I run one-piece from eave to peak going UNDER the overhang on the dormer roof? or do I go eave to dormer overhang, hoping the valley trim will work all the way from the peak of the dormer roof tothe dormer roof eave?
Allan Reid
Dura-Loc Roofing Systems, Inc.
11/18/2005
Sounds like you have a true standing seam roof that needs toi be mechanically seamed. Some rental places and some manufacturers rent them out. As to the valley connection at the dormers, you need to try lay the sheet out so that a ful one is centred each side if possible. Best to run them in two pieces. Install the first one from the bottom up to a point at the top edge of the valley metal. Install the valley metal over which will require folding the one seam down but that seam will terminate under the soffit. Then install the upper sheet over the valley, terminating along the centre angle.
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