5-V Crimp Installation Questions.

Guest User
3/16/2005
Gentelmen: I am planning on installing a 5-V crimp metal roofing system on my Florida house with a 4/12" Slope. The basics of it seem easy enough and I have watched a few contractors putting them up on nearby condos. I have downloaded a few Technical Docs and Specs on the system and It seems like everyone has a different method of installtion. Everything is very clear to me except on the ridge and eave caps. My questions are as followed: 1)Eave/ Gable Trims? Just by looking at what people in my area have done it seems that 50% have a trim overlapping their Pannels and 50% do not (trim is under the pannels attached to the Plywood above the 30lb paper. Am i correct in what I am seeing? Any coments on weather it is good to place the trim over the metal, or extend the pannels out over th edge of the house? 2) Ridge Cap? I some-what understand how this goes on but i do not have a real clear understanding. I understand you need to notch the trim along the pannels so it fits flush and to put down sealant tape. However in some technical documents I see they call for an "outside-closure"? Is this neccesary? I dont not see any specs on an "outside closure" Any feedback is greatly appreciated. Do you guys have any other tips for DIY'ers? My roof is extrememly simple. Just a single ridge house with no hips valleys or transitions. I already have my centers marked and am waiting on materials.
Allan Reid
Dura-Loc Roofing Systems, Inc.
3/18/2005
This is the State of Florida. Hence you need a building permit and the roofing product you choose must carry a valid FL approval. Hopefully the product you choose has this approval. You can look it up on the State web site. The prodyuct approval should deal with all the details you talked about. Having said that, 1) The code calls for a drip edge at the eaves. The sheets should extend a min of 1" and be sealed to the drip edge with Butyl tape. The best detail for the gable is to run a metal shingle starter and then fold the sheed over the lead edge to hook it on. Lay your sheets out on the roof length so each end has the same exposure. This provides excellant wind uplift resistance and a need appearance. 2) Now that you are at the ridge, it brings up the need for ventilation. If you have a vaulted ceiuling with no attic then you need to have a minimum of 1" free vented air under the roof covering. If it is an attic then the best way to ventilate is out the ridge. You can use the standard ridge cap but purchase a product called VERSAVENT by Atlas and carried by Fabral. It is a vented closure strip approximately 3" wide and in 10" lengths that mold to the profile. They are self adhering to the ridgecap and stand it up 1". This ventilates and seals. (Closures are generally termed male and female).
Guest User
3/21/2005
Thanks for the input Allan, I have already pulled my building permit and I just looked through the approval papers. Everything is clrearly explained in that packet. As for a ridge vent. I currently do not have one. My Vents come from soffit vents on the underside of the roof connecting to the house and from a ventilation window on the front side of my house. So I should not need another. Thanks -Rob
Guest User
3/21/2005
As for the Gabel detail. Im not sure i understand your method.Place a metal drip edge along the face of the gable and then bend the sheet pannel edge down to the metal drip edge and tack it that way?
Allan Reid
Dura-Loc Roofing Systems, Inc.
3/22/2005
No. You fold the side edge of the roof sheet back underon itself. This then hooks over the starter strip and provides a clean gable detail with no raw edges.
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