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I just purchased a new "Manufactured Home" with a "Pro Panel" vertical rib metal roof. The metal roof overhangs the eave flashing by 1/16 - 1/8" this allows the frost melt in the morning to run directly down the facia board. When I questioned the home manufacturer about this I was told that the roofing manufacturer recomends no overhang to prevent ice damning between the roof panel and flashing.
I have never seen a roof with so little overhang over the facia boards. Having lived in a wet climate where the roof runoff cascaded down the front of the facia causing expensive damage to the facia boards, I find it hard to believe this is a proper installation.
ANy help will be greatly appreciated.
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I have seen variances in recommendations for this overhang. Generally, 3/4" or so is common though.
Butyl tape can be used between the bottom of the panel and the roof leg of the drip edge to keep water from migrating uphill. This would probably avoid the situation that the home manufacturer has referred to.
If you add gutters to the house, slip the back edge of the gutter up behind the roof drip edge. Adding gutters may be the best answer to your situation.
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Todd,
Thanks for the information.
I will be installing gutters on the house and your insight into the installation behind the drip edge is very helpful.
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need to refoof garage i was thinking metal a friend said he wouldPUT it it over shinges but i question its final APPEARANCE ROOF DECK IS VERY GOOD CONDITION FIVE EIGHTS PLYWOOD ALSO SHOULD I USE UNDER LAYMENT AND SPECIAL TREAT FOR ANY VALLIES
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Many types of metal roofing are ideal for going over existing shingles, especially the horizontally-run shake, shingle, tile, and slate facsimile products.
In most cases, getting good fastening is not a question provided the existing decking is in decent shape.
With some vertical seam products, though, particularly if the old shingles are badly curled, going over existing shingles can cause a rippled appearance in the metal panels.
As far as underlayment, most manufacturers will suggest something such as a 30-pound felt or a poly-based underlayment. If you're putting down a flating standing seam system on top, you need a slip sheet such as red rosin paper between the metal and 30-pound felt.
The valley treatment is based upon the product you choose to install. The manufacturer, in many cases, will offer a pre-formed matching valley. In all cases, they should have instructions for valley installation.
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You have reach the Metal Roofing Alliance which is an association of manufacturers and suppliers that promote and produce residential metal roofing to standards set by the Metal Construction Association.
Having said that I would first identify and contact the manufactuer to get his recommendations and while you are ther ask him if they are a member of the association and if the product meets the standards.
If you have no success there then go back on our site and contact one of our member manufactuers who make a similar product and go to their web site to get instructions. Good Luck.
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I am considering aluminum shingles (or similar) for my new construction next year. The roof will be a 10:12 pitch. We would use toe boards if we installed asphalt shingles, but how will we deal with the steep slope if we decide to install a metal roof?
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The manufacturer of the product you're considering will probably have suggestions on this. However, you can usually use roofjacks and walkboards. This will involve a small notch in the butt of the shingle which can then be folded back down into place when the jacks are removed.
You can also hang ladders over the ridge and use ladder jacks and walkboards.
Another option is to construct a "float board" from a 4 x 8 or 4 x 4 sheet of plywood with 3/4" foam on its backside and to boards nailed into the front. By working a system of two boards which are roped off, you can move across the roof.
Also, be sure to use proper personal safety equipment such as a rope and harness.
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