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ClickLock is a 1.75" tall seam snap lock panel, 12" wide panels. Always adhere to manufacturer recommendations. Many companies though would approve that panel down to 1.5:12. Your short rafter length (60") plays to your favor on your project. The shorter the rafter length, the less total water the panels have to carry. Snap lock panels are relatively easy to install, and even DIY installation is not uncommon. It helps if the manufacturer is able to provide pre-formed flashings.
Thanks Loretta. We'd enjoy being a part of your project. Vent3 is fine beneath the standing seam. Only one layer of underlayment is required. The standing seam could in your case be installed over the old shingles assuming there is a single layer. The poplar decking would be fine. You can sometimes put insulation beneath metal roofs though generally a better place for insulation is on top of the ceilings, not the roof.
Much of the industry has switched to synthetic underlayment but 30 pound felt paper is also okay beneath metal roofs. Underneath standing seam, you may want a slip sheet on top of that (such as red rosin paper or a synthetic underlayment). As far as rooftop insulation ... always adhere to roofing manufacturer instructions but usually this would be a poly iso board or a rigid urethane forma insulation board.
We are in NYC where we do get snow
I was looking at ClickLock by classic metal
the roof dimensions are about 60 inches deep and
20 feet long.
Is the 2:12 min still OK in that scenario?
Can this be installed by a general contractor?
Thanks for the reply
so 2:12 even with NE snow is OK - good
( saw that some shakes had higher ratings for snow, so I wondered)
the ClickLock I am looking at is the ClassicMetal aluminum. I know I can tolerate the coating. I have chemical allergies.
I have tested Cromar Vent 3 blue underlayment, would that be appropriate for this product?
I am chemically sensitive so if new decking is required it would be solid poplar boards, is that a problem with this roofing material?
Besides decking and underlayment ( I believe 2 layers of underlayment is required, is that correct?)
are any other materials needed?
I've seen people talk about "insulation" with metal roofs but I don't have any idea what that means.
(this is a small bump out roof, probably was a porch originally)
One more, If by some miracle we could keep the current tar paper roof (which is completely out gassed and intact) could this metal roof be attached directly to it?
thanks again
Thanks for the reply
the roof is tar paper is that still OK for direct attachment?
Is there any special insulation for a metal roof?
