
In my opinion, "Angled A" will work the best and look the best.
Bryce, I apologize if I am looking at things incorrectly. The way I look at it, the panels will be perpendicular to the eaves and the valley will need to be a cleated valley where the ends of the panels lock into the valley. Depending upon the dimensions of this, there will potentially be panels that lock solely over the valley cleats and the panel next to them or them or they go into the hip flashing. There will be very long miters along the sides of some of those panels.
I have a bay window to be roofed in standings seam metal.
The roofer is unfortunately not much use in deciding how to frame this out. Which option would work best? For the flat option how does the flashing work? For the flat version the main roof seams need to be aligned with the bay window seams, which might be pain.
This is to be 1" standing seam metal (Metal Sales Image II panels at 16")
Hey Todd,
Is the angle a problem there? With a traditional valley flashing for a shingle roof, "downhill" is always toward the center of the valley.
With the angled option, "downhill" is straight down the flashing.
Maybe that's why the original design included the extra face, so that the valley was a true valley?
The standing seams are perpendicular to the eaves.
In a proper valley gravity draws water to the center of the valley. Here one side is dead flat. Water will flow to the eave, but could wander left or right on the way down.
I drew up some possible solutions. Comments?
Metal Sales Image II residential panels. These do not have separate clips.