Since you are in a coastal area, I would recommend 3/4 plywood attached to the 5/4. High Temp peel and stick up four feet above the interior side of the exterior wall; a good quality vapor barrier for the remainder of the roof. Stainless steel fastners and an aluminum panel with a PVDF paint finish.
This combination is best for the long term performance of a roof, particularly in a coastal environment.
Dick Bus
2015-05-17 18:19:02.000000
I think it would be best if you were to screw through the 5/4 into the trusses. But I am sure that you fastening to the 5/4 will do the job as well.
Pressure treated would be ok as long as you as use stainless steel screws to fasten both the plywood as well as the metal roof.
I am not knowledgeable about plywood to make a recommendation regarding the species.
I do not know any contractors in your area. it is very important to select the right one. you are spot on when asking about their insurance. I would also ask them for references and verify that the previous projects were done to the homeowners satisfaction.
let me know if you have any other questions.
Dick Bus
2015-05-19 13:41:58.000000
I have a 1940, single story home, with a shingled hip roof.The sheathing are 5/4 boards. My roof has a few minor imperfections and wavieness.
I was thinking of furring - out using untreated 1x4 or 2x4. I was giong to install these horozontally on 2 ft centers but at 16 inches at the bottom peremiter. I want to install a ridger vent at the top
I was giong to strip away the old shingles,install ice and water shield HT and furr. Or could I furr out over top the old shingles?
I was giong with 26 gauge galvolume 5v crimp or 26 gauge Ag pannells in galvolume. or should I go 24 gauge?
Thanks
Bill Hilton
Guest User
2015-05-17 15:00:36.000000
I am guessing the plywood would be fastened with long enough screws to go thru the plywood and 5/4 board and into the roof trusses or can I screw the plywood into the 5/4 board . It seems to me if the 5/4 board is fastened good to the roof trusses this would be sufficient but going thru both and into the trusses might be strongest.It may be overkill, I have a tendency to be that way.
I really appreciate your advice it makes good sense.Is their a particular grade of 3/4 inch plywood you recommend? I assume pressure treated plywood would be wrong because of chemical interactions with the vapor barrier and/or metal roofing. Do you have any members you could recommend for this job? I live on Saint Simons Island Ga.A lot of the roofers here (most) are uninsured.
Thanks Again
Bill Hilton