New 24gauge metal roof

Ben, I recommend that you get the term warranty out of your mind. What you really want to know is what is the long term performance of the installed product going to be. Kynar 500/Hylar5000 paint systems have been around since the '60s. These paint systems resist fade. I have seen projects that are 40 years old and look as pristine as the day it was installed. The next consideration is the type of metal; galvalume coated steel has been around since the '70s. Many of the early ones were not painted and are performing extremely well. A painted aluminum roof will never corrode (except in extreme coastal environments) and is easier for a contractor to cut. Fasteners should be stainless steel. if you are considering an exposed fastened panel the paint finish on the fasteners should be a high performance coating. I do not have the information with me, but type of closure tape and sealants is also important. Finally, the contractor's ability is the most important. Get referrals, go visit the referrals make sure you are comfortable with the installations. Make sure that the crew that will be doing your house is the same one that did the other quality installations. The Metal Roof Alliance should have a visualizer out soon. We are in the process of updating ours. Feel free to contact us if you have any further questions.

Okay, this sounds good but I am not aware of a synthetic underpayment or slip sheet, where do I find this information and how much will this add to the cost? I take it this is in addition to the 30 pound felt? I am sure my contractor will know what I am talking about but likewise I would also like to know. thanks again Ben Pacheco bfpach@hotmail.com

No number for removing the roof other then it was calculated if we decided to go again with architectural shingles. One of the roofers went up and nailed down the shingles that were sliding off. Actually the contractor price for metal using 26 gauge was less expensive then the architectural shingles, in shingles it will require 57 squares, not sure how that calculates out in metal. With metal we will be using a tan colored 40 year warranty. He suggested using 30 pound felt over the existing architectural shingles, We talked about bubble wrap but was told if I have sufficient insulation in the attic, that it would be just an added expense, then I hear what Dick suggested makes it more confusing. Either way I need to get the roof fixed. If we go over the shingles with the felt on top, how that would affect the looks of the 26 gauge metal! again thanks for the feedback, hope you had a great weekend..

+1 I think synthetics are always preferred.

There is the possibility, if the shingles continue to fail and slide out, that one could come loose and create a bubble or distortion in the roof. If you attic is sufficiently insulated, the roof is correct in that the bubble wrap is not needed. A radiant barrier needs an airspace to work properly anyway so putting the roof directly on top will not accomplish anything. The total square footage should be about the same if the asphalt was measured properly. I don't see that being 57 squares based on the picture but then again, I can't see the back of the home. It is a large roof, just doesn't look near 60 square large. I would inquire about a price to strip the roof and to use a synthetic underlayment in lieu of 30lb felt.