Dbl Wide Installation Q's

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Dbl Wide Installation Q's

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I would not recommend the use of a through fastened panel for that pitch in Michigan. When installing the gutters make sure to use screwed in brackets 16" oc.
Dick Bus
2014-06-05 08:59:02.000000
not with a concealed fastened 2" tall standing seam. Ice and water shield should be installed a minimum of 3' up from the interior of wall. In other words if you have an 12" overhang plus the thickness of the wall and considering the slope you would use two rows of Ice and water shield.
Dick Bus
2014-06-05 18:33:29.000000
Thanks for your post. Make sure that the metal roof panels you're installing are approved for your roof pitch. As far as underlayment, including ice and watershield on the roof perimeter, it is required by code. Do not try to get by without it. Good luck and thanks again.
Todd Miller
2014-06-04 22:00:26.000000
For a 2:12 pitch roof, I suggest standing seam, either a high seam snap lock panel, or a mechanically seamed panel. There may be some through-fastened panels approved for that pitch as well.
Todd Miller
2014-06-04 22:21:14.000000
Hello all, I have a 63'x24' double wide trailer that has a single layer of asphalt shingles, and the shingles are bad, and the roof deck is junk, junk as in it looks like you could ride a surf board across my roof junk. I have been doing my research, and figured it would cost me almost 4k to do the roof myself with shingles......thats how much I paid for it, don't wanna spend that much if needed. Now, I figured it with metal roof from the amish, and figured I would be almost 3k cheaper. Now, my main question is, after I replace the roof deck and verify the rafters are in good shape, do I HAVE to have felt, or Ice and Water Guard below the metal roof? Or can I have bare wood and still be ok? I am planning to have approximately 12" of overhang from the decking, and than put soffit and fascia on after that, along with reworking the venting in my roof. Any help is GREATLY appreciated, thank you for your time
Lucas Duley
2014-06-04 21:52:44.000000
Ah yes, I forgot to mention my pitch, its a 12x2
Lucas Duley
2014-06-04 22:08:34.000000
Now when I did my research on the I & W Guard for shingles, I was told because of the pitch, I would have to run the I & W guard across the entire roof deck, same applies for the metal I am guessing?
Lucas Duley
2014-06-05 18:15:30.000000
ok cool, that makes the project slightly cheaper vs. putting it on the entire roof Now, I have heard mixed opinions about venting, in the living room, I have a vaulted ceiling, the rest of the house is a flat ceiling that hangs lower than the living room. The way my trailer is set up, is the roof was 2 pieces just like the trailer was being a double wide, so all the way down the center the roof peak is sealed, I do have 2 rood vents, but only on ONE side of the trailer, so far as I can tell, I only have one side of the roof venting, while the other is not. What my idea was, was when I replace the roof deck, I would leave approximatly a 1" gap or so at the peak, and down on the bottom where the soffit and facia would go, I would take a 4" hole saw, and drill holes into the top of the trailer about every 6ft, than the soffit and facia would be able to vent from the bottom up to the roof ridge vent. I hope the way I described this makes sense, as I believe it would be the easiest and most cost effective way of venting my roof. I understand roof replacement is never a cheap project, but for my wages, I need to keep the cost down the best that I can to make it affordable for myself, so any way I can make this cost effective, it would make it much easier
Lucas Duley
2014-06-08 12:19:58.000000
As long as the insulation isn't tight to the underside of the sheathing and there is a pathway for the air to move, that ventilation strategy could work. I would really have to see a picture of it to get a full grasp and ventilation needs to be consistent and balanced. You are also supposed to vent every rafter bay.
Eric Novotny
2014-06-09 07:02:42.000000