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The International Building Code calls for a minimum 1" vented airspace. This is best achieved using soffit vents (intake) and ridge vent (exhaust).
I would prefer to see it located beneath the roof decking. However, consult with your metal roofing manufacturer regarding other options.
I suggest a vapor barrier between the t & g and the foam panels. Make sure that the foam panels are properly sealed at their seams.
Avoid excessive moisture sources inside the home.
Keep in mind that these principles all apply regardless of whether the roof is metal or another material.
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First, Tom, thanks for thinking of metal!
Use this website to find products you like. Contact the manufacturers and request information including contact information for experienced installers near you.
Many metal roofs are very suitable for going over old shingles. If you have two layers of old shingles, local building codes may require them to be removed though.
Assuming the home is standard construction with an atticspace and assuming that attic is vented with intake (usually soffit) and exhaust (usually ridge vent( vents, you should not have any condensation concerns. Make sure that various plumbing vents are vented all the way outside and not just into the attic.
Once you find a contractor, go look at past jobs they have done -- talk to past customers.
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I had a metal roof installed in August 2001. The metal roof was installed over a existing asphalt roof(original roof) on 1 inch firring strips with no moisture barrier installed anywhere. I have high cathedral ceilings made of pine with very little insulation since the house was built in the late sixties. Now , since I live in a heavy snow belt area off of Lake Erie, predictably the eaves are loaded with ice. I had leaking into the kitchen ceiling. I tried to explain all this to the roofing "contractor", but he put the roof on his way anyways. I was willing to pay him for apropriate enhancements to lessen or eliminate the problem from the roof. I do not intend to insulate the vaulted ceilings as the aesthetic effect would be destroyed. The contractors solution is to come over every January to chop a foot of ice off my eaves. There has to be a better way . Any Suggestions. HELP!!!!!!!
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I had a metal roof installed in August 2001. The metal roof was installed over a existing asphalt roof(original roof) on 1 inch firring strips with no moisture barrier installed anywhere. I have high cathedral ceilings made of pine with very little insulation since the house was built in the late sixties. Now , since I live in a heavy snow belt area off of Lake Erie, predictably the eaves are loaded with ice. I had leaking into the kitchen ceiling. I tried to explain all this to the roofing "contractor", but he put the roof on his way anyways. I was willing to pay him for apropriate enhancements to lessen or eliminate the problem from the roof. I do not intend to insulate the vaulted ceilings as the aesthetic effect would be destroyed. The contractors solution is to come over every January to chop a foot of ice off my eaves. There has to be a better way . Any Suggestions. HELP!!!!!!!
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I am assuming that the battens which were installed run horizontally, meaning that you do not have any good airflow. You could remove the roof and build a vented airspace on top of the old asphalt shingles and then re-install the metal roof. This would require soffit vents and a ridge vent.
Another option is to try heat tape over the overhangs. Raytheon is the big manufacturer of heat tape.
Another possibility would be to cut back the metal roof panels and install flat metal over the overhangs to encourage snow to slide.
I cannot guarantee that any one of these is the answer but they might help.
If you build up a new roof, you could go high enough to include insulation and an airspace on top of that.
You may need to get a structural engineer to review this type of project.
1/28/2004
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