I want to install a standing seam metal roof but don't know how to adapt the bathroom fan vent to the roof. I can't seem to find a vent cap with a flexible base to screw down to seal to the roof. Any assistance would be appreciated. Thanks.
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They make bath fan vent caps that will mount on a straight section of piping.
Eric Novotny An informed customer is the Best Customer!
6/9/2017
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Unfortunately, the cap that is on the shingle now is just a cap, no protruding pipe and I still don't know how I would extend that through the roof and the solid steel sheet without some fancy custom flashing or such.
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Is there an attic below? If so, just go down there and extend the pipe.
Eric Novotny An informed customer is the Best Customer!
6/9/2017
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I'm looking to install a metal roof over my existing shingles one contractor says I need the wood stripping's the other contractor says it's a waste of money that it can be put directly on top of the shingles. I'm not for sure which would be best
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Gary, I receive that question several times a month believe it or not. Here is one of the things I have written about it which I hope will be helpful. If you have specific things going on with your situation / home that concern you, feel free to email me your questions. [email protected] https://www.asktoddmiller.com/articles/metal-roof-battens/
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Questions in last paragraph. A little back story precedes:
We had a metal roof installed last year (classic rib, exposed fasteners). Contractor initially was going to tear off the single layer of shingles, but then decided not to (later removed this cost from the contract). He did not put underlayment between the old shingles and metal. But that's a different story.
The installation was not to our liking. Wrinkles in the metal, ridge caps didn't look straight. No flashing around the brick chimney (on purpose - he said he sealed it up...). Boots missing from vent pipes. Roof panels looked to be cut too short where they overlapped the valley flashing (looked like too much flashing visible - probably water tight, but just looked bad to us). Etc.
Contractor stated that the old house framing prevented having nice straight lines.
We feel he should have done something about this before he put the metal on.
Currently he has sent us a bid to tear off the roofing down to the rafters and install 5/8 OSB, then titanium underlayment, ice/water shield, then metal. I'm assuming he will not attempt to re-use the current metal, but I haven't confirmed this with him yet.
Even though he should have corrected any framing issues on the front end (and included in the cost of his bid), we probably will agree to pay the additional to have it corrected as opposed to trying to force him to make it right at no additional cost to us. But it does leave a bad taste in my mouth.
My questions are, is it necessary for him to go clear down to the rafters and install new 5/8 OSB, or should he be able to make adjustments to the roof and ridge framing by installing battens (and shimming as necessary) over the top of the old layer of shingles?
Also am I right in thinking that once he removes the metal it should be replaced by new metal?
Thanks for the advice.
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Eric, Unfortunately I have no way of knowing exactly how bad the current situation is. All I can do is defer to the contractor who is seeing things first hand and has worked on the roof. Battens are not easy to install in a way that makes up for problems. It may be possible to remove and re-install the panels without damaging them ... but it may not be worth the extra headache.
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My roofing contractor is attempting to install a new metal roof over the existing shingles. We are getting very definite visible ridges at the end of the shingle tabs. Should he be using furring strips or would it be better to use a foam underlayment material between the shingles and the metal? We have stopped until we find a solution. Ken Carpenter
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Kenneth, Can you post a picture or send me a photo at [email protected]? One option would be to remove the old shingles but I do wonder a bit if what you're seeing is from the shingles or perhaps something else.
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The material is from Union Galvanizing. It is their "5V" panel in 26 ga. A Slip layer is between the panels and the old shingles. Is it possible that the problem is caused by over torquing the fasteners (screws)?
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Thanks. This is unusual ... if it seems to be related to the shingle tabs then, without being there or seeing photos, I sure can't argue with that theory. Could it also be caused by overtightened fasteners? Yes, probably. Uneven decking could cause it as well. I would probably opt for removing the shingles or using purlins (assuming union is okay with that) rather than go the foam route. I am just not a fan of foam beneath metal roofs.
6/9/2017
An informed customer is the Best Customer!
6/9/2017
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