Wow. My real suggestion is to put the flashing in place before the siding goes on ... and then you can bring the siding down snug to the flashing. Is this feasible?
Todd Miller
2012-07-02 20:39:59.000000
But oftentimes folks will remove the siding. Trying to work the flashing behind it is tough. You are likely to run into nails. In most cases the siding is brought down right on top of the J and sealed. You won't be able to do that. I would keep it as tight as you can though and then seal up under the bottom edge of the siding.
Todd Miller
2012-07-03 14:16:18.000000
What are the recommendations of the manufacturer?
Keep in mind that most leaks on metal roofs are are roof to wall intersections and around other elevation changes.
Eric Novotny
2012-07-03 06:49:48.000000
+1
When doing something as permanent as metal, you really should remove the siding and get the flashing details done as best as possible.
Eric Novotny
2012-07-04 22:23:50.000000
I am going to install metal tiles on my roof. After putting the plywood on, the sidewall (TG wood) is about half inch above the plywood. I can manage to push in the shingle small L-shaped flashings from the small opening, but there is no way to insert the J-channel flashing (about 10-feet long). The question is: How much (height) sidewall should I cut in order to insert the J-channel? I know the more I cut the easier it would be to insert. But I also do not want cut too much, so what's the recommended height between the plywood and the lower end of the sidewall? Also, what kind of tools do I need to cut it (the sidewall wood)? I have a regular circular saw, but I do not think that will work because the cutting line is so close to the plywood.