We FINALLY have our metal roof materials, so the fun begins! We decided on a light color (tan) 26 ga. Tuff Rib 36" wide from Gulf Coast Supply & Mfg. http://www.gulfcoastsupply.com/product_tuff-rib.htm
We will be installing over our existing asphalt shingle roof. We have good 1x6 (or 1x8) plank decking underneath the shingles and no leaks. Our only remaining issue (I hope) is the decision on whether to install the metal roof right over the tyvek covered shingles or install over 1x4 battens. The manufacturer directions (both verbally and written) indicate we can install the metal roof either way. Our friends who have installed metal roofs are divided on their advice to us. So, any last pro's or con's either way?
BTW, we live in Central FL... it's hot, humid, and at times a little windy (haha).
Thanks in advance!
Guest User
2011-08-13 10:40:06.000000
Thanks Todd! The fun has begun!
Guest User
2011-08-15 12:45:20.000000
We dodged Hurricane Irene and are almost done with installing our metal roof. It's been HOT work, but we are pleased with the results so far.
One question... how do we finish the hip where it meets the eve (the pointed corners)?? We've done a lot of looking on the web and can't figure it out. We also asked the manufacturer but directions were unclear.
I've attached a pic of the last section we have to do (other than trim and painting the skylight).
Guest User
2011-09-04 17:26:09.000000
Here's a hip cap that we tried to fold... don't like it! We are getting seamless gutters that may "hide" some of it, but not all?
Guest User
2011-09-04 17:32:07.000000
No problem at all!! And thanks for the compliment on the mural. We love it!
Yep, I think we can do that. Well, not with the piece that's already up there, but we can take it up and do it over (we planned on it anyway). My hubby 'practiced' on this piece. It's not perfect, but better than what is up there. He said this will fold over the edge of the roof panel. It's a lot of folding!!
BTW, the ridge caps you see in the previously attached pic are from the old roof. We've had a lot of rain, so we put those up everyday after working.
Sorry if the photos are uploading sideways... ugh!
Guest User
2011-09-04 18:28:11.000000
Another view...
Guest User
2011-09-04 18:30:04.000000
I live just a few miles from the Canadian border, so it gets very cold here. I want to put Metal Sales "Classic Rib" on my saltbox style house. I've been told (by a local handyman) that condensation would be an issue, if installed directly over the plywood and underlayment. In other words he is suggesting using battens. The roof has ridge and soffit vents. I was hoping to get a definite answer, (to batten or not to batten) or at least a rule of thumb.
Guest User
2011-09-14 06:33:19.000000
Thanks for replying so quickly. It's been a while since I've been up in the attic. I don't recall seeing a vapor barrier up there. I believe, the blown in "loose fill" insulation is just covering the the sheetrock and roof truss bases, I'll have to get back up there and see. The upstairs bathroom vent hose goes up through the ceiling and out the soffit. It works, but I think some of the heat makes it into the attic. I could try to insulate it a little better, but crawling around in loose insulation isn't my favorite thing to do.
You said "Ultimately, though, a batten installation will have some summer benefits as well as potentially winter benefits".
What benefits would those be???
Guest User
2011-09-14 20:07:29.000000
Thanks Todd! It was VERY hot work, but SO worth it!
Guest User
2011-09-26 17:45:51.000000
We have been recommended to use factory applied reflective paint to the roofing before installing. What happens over time? Is it possible to reapply the paint over the years? Does one need to? How long does the initial factory reflective paint last?
Guest User
2015-07-28 18:15:00.000000
i have read some of the warranties regarding metal roofs and they are very impressive. has anyone experienced any problems however few with manufacturers not wanting to fulfill obligations? If so, any in particular? thank you in advance.
I just read the disclaimer below and agree! lol!
Guest User
2017-05-08 20:53:07.000000
Generally speaking, some of the tile and shake facsimile products MUST be installed over battens (though many do not have to be and some can be).
Most of the metal shingle, slate, and shake products are never to be installed on battens.,
Many of the vertical seam panels can be installed either way.
It is based strictly on the individual product, how it has been designed and tested. It has to do with product design and sometimes with metal thickness and type.
As far as DIY ... I really suggest finding the product you want and can buy first ands then working backward to get installation information on it. There really is no industry wide generic installation procedure. It varies based upon the product.
If you really want to see some sample manuals just for consideration, email me at tmiller@classicroof.com. There are also manuals available online with certain manufacturers such as Fabral, McElroy, ATAS, and Metal Sales.
Todd Miller
2011-06-21 13:58:12.000000
Lighter colors will virtually always have greater reflectivity for summer engery savings. However thanks to the nagic of reflective pigment decent reflectivity is available in many darker colors.
Generally I find most folks like a darker roof and I tell them that I don't feel the slight extra reflectivity of a lighter roof is worth the trade off for a color of roof you do not like. But if you like the lighter colors then that's great -- you get the best of both worlds!
Now, if you are in a real dirty area -- trees around, lots of airborne fungus, etc., you are correct in that that will show up on a lighter colored roof first.
I hope this helps!
Todd Miller
2011-06-21 14:43:00.000000
Good questions. From a practical standpoint, power washing is usually the way to clean if necessary.
I would look hard at the quality of paint system the products have. Generally speaking, Kynar / Hylar systems are recognized as the top quality followed by super polyesters. You will get your best combination of fade and chalk resistance out of the Kynar / Hylar coating especially in dark colors.
Lighter colors do have greater reflectivity but you can get decent reflectivity in dark colors if they have reflective pigment in the paint.
As far as whether you go over the old shingles ... generally I do not see issues with doing so. However, if you have existing leaks or decking issues, those should be addressed. Additionally, come standing seams that do not have much corrugation or striation or texturing to them will be more likely to show ripples in the final appearance if the old shingles are left in place,
I hope this helps.
Todd Miller
2011-06-25 09:20:59.000000
An installation over battens will increase summer energy efficiency but since you have gone with a light color the improvement from going over battens will be less dramatic.
Todd Miller
2011-08-13 11:40:38.000000
I am so sorry that somehow I missed your posting of a couple of weeks ago.
I love the mural on your home!
Is there a way where you can do what you have done except go ahead and fold the hip cap cover around the bottom edge of the roofing as well, closing off the gap and also locking the bottom edge of the hip cover to the roofing to help avoid potential wind problems?
Todd Miller
2011-09-04 17:41:54.000000
Ted, if you have good insulation on the attic floor as well as ventilation in the attic, you should be okay. I would also love to see a vapor barrier behind your ceilings and, of course, make sure that any moisture sources are vented to the outside and not just into the attic.
Ultimately, though, a batten installation will have some summer benefits as well as potentially winter benefits.
Todd Miller
2011-09-14 07:42:19.000000
The thermal break created by the airgap helps to stop summer heat transfer by conduction. This will keep your attic naturally cooler in the summer and reduce your air conditioning costs.
Todd Miller
2011-09-14 21:02:31.000000
Looks great! Thanks for buying a metal roof! You did a beautiful job.
Todd Miller
2011-09-26 16:28:23.000000
Most of the finishes that are Energy Star rated, meaning they have reflective pigment, are higher quality finishes that should last a minimum of 30 years for super polyesters and 50+ years for PVDF (Kynar, Hylar) coatings.
Todd Miller
2015-07-28 21:27:21.000000
Most of the finishes that are Energy Star rated, meaning they have reflective pigment, are higher quality finishes that should last a minimum of 30 years for super polyesters and 50+ years for PVDF (Kynar, Hylar) coatings.
Todd Miller
2015-07-28 21:27:44.000000
Most of the finishes that are Energy Star rated, meaning they have reflective pigment, are higher quality finishes that should last a minimum of 30 years for super polyesters and 50+ years for PVDF (Kynar, Hylar) coatings.
Todd Miller
2015-07-28 21:27:45.000000
Most of the finishes that are Energy Star rated, meaning they have reflective pigment, are higher quality finishes that should last a minimum of 30 years for super polyesters and 50+ years for PVDF (Kynar, Hylar) coatings.
Todd Miller
2015-07-28 21:28:05.000000
I read a reply in an earlier message concerning installation where you replied: "...some metal roofing products by design MUST be installed over battens, some CAN be installed over battens, and some MUST NEVER be installed over battens. So, if the product is to be installed this way, make sure it is approved by its manufacturer for this type of installation." Can you explain what kind of metal roofing is installed with battens and which is not? And, when you say "some metal roofing products" are you talking about brand, style, guage, etc?
Also, do you have any advice or specific informational websites for "do-it-yourself" metal roof installation? We will be installing a metal roof (in Florida) over an existing shingle roof (not architectural tabs).
Linda Rhode
2011-06-21 13:49:15.000000
Wow, Thank You for the quick replys!
We will likely go with the vertical seam panels (until we started researching, we didn't know there were so many styles of metal roofs!). We are looking for manufacturers locally and will follow the installation procedures of whoever we select.
Ours will be the first metal roof in a subdivision of mainly older (1960 era) homes. I can't wait to see the finished product!
One more question, I read something about color in a different post.... I thought I read that it's recommended to go with a darker rather than lighter color? Our preliminary plans were for a light tan so that it would "go" with any color we painted our block house. However, the comment I read has me concerned that a light color will show the dirt more and also something about reflectivity?
Linda Rhode
2011-06-21 14:25:42.000000
Thanks Todd (great name, by the way... my brother's name!).
Is there a fairly easy way to clean the light colored roof if it gets dirty? I.e., spray something on and hose it off? We really don't have any large trees over the roof, but we are tropical in nature, so anything that gets wet a lot will mildew. Our current white drip edge has black streaks on it, so not sure if that's an indication of how clean the roof will stay.
So far, we have received three quotes from companies all around the state. Prices have differed by $1,000 to $2,000 for 26 gauge vertical seam panels. Is there a difference in the metal from company to company?
Other differences between the companies have been with leaving or removing the existing shingles (one recommended removal with the addition of a rubber underlayment); one recommended plain silver over any painted color, stating that it was more energy efficient, while others say the painted is better. Personally, I prefer the darker colors, but I worry about fading or chalking.
It's decision time!! :-)
Linda Rhode
2011-06-24 16:03:44.000000
YIPEE!!!!!!!!! We are FINISHED and it looks AWESOME! Better yet, we passed inspection!!
I cannot thank you enough for your help and support throughout this process! You all really helped us when we were at that point where we needed someone to tip us in one direction or another.
Check out the finished product!
Linda Rhode
2011-09-26 16:20:13.000000
Another view..... don't look at the weeds in the flower beds, we've been busy! :-)
Linda Rhode
2011-09-26 16:21:17.000000
+1
Find the look of the product that you want and work backwards from there.
Each product will have specific, although sometimes identical, installation protocols.
Depending on where you are in Florida, there may be some specific hurricane fastening schedules as well for whatever material you decide on.
Eric Novotny
2011-06-21 14:05:16.000000
You should be fine with your current ventilation.
Make sure the soffits are not blocked and seal up the attic floor. Once you have done that, add enough insulation dept (cellulose is preferable) to get a combined depth of about 16"
Eric Novotny
2011-09-16 09:49:03.000000
Congrats!!
Your work would probably put many professional roofers work to shame.
Well done.