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In thinking about this, you need to first determine when, if ever, condensation might form in the cottage. Condensation, as you know, forms when warm moist air hits a cool surface.
In the case of an unheated cottage, provided there are no sources of excessive moisture, condensation may never occur. However, if you throw in heated areas or even a damp basement or crawlspace, you could have troubles.
Next, you mention installing over decking or over strapping. The answer for this is based upon what type of metal roof you choose and how its manufacturer says it should be installed. Do not use any other determining factors. The same goes for the underlayment choice.
The way to avoid condensation is to have a well vented attic space beneath the decking or the strapping (whichever the case may be.) Good ventilation requires intake and exhaust. Typically, using soffit vents for intake and a full ridge vent for exhaust works best. Make sure that the metal roof you choose has a suitable detail for ridge vent.
Insulate down on top of the ceilings over the living space.
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I had a metal roof put on my house and an awning built over walkway from porch to my husbands building. Both are attatched to house and the walkway is a cement slab just off my front porch. When it rains it leaks where he attatched the awning to the house. how can it be fixed I cannot seem to be able to get a hold of the contractor who put my roof on so i have to do it myself.
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Obviously, there are numerous things which could be happening. Ideally, I'd like to see a flashing inserted into the wall and coming out on top of the metal roofing.
If you can email photos to me at [email protected], I can make some better suggestions.
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I recently purchased a home with a custom built standing seam metal roof. I leaks in several places.I hired a roofing expert to investigate the problem. He informed me the roof was not installed properly and needed to be replaced. I can not locate the installer but I know Custom Built manufactured the roof. What should I do?
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Custom-Bilt Metals is a member of the MRA. They are based in South El Monte, CA. I think that, if you contact them, they will be very helpful in terms of assessing the situation and making some recommendations.
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6-year old house with standing seam metal roof 8/12 pitch with brick chimney off-peak about 1/3 of the way down. Leaks when raining are visible from inside as drips between ceiling and upside of chimney. Leaks since house was built. Enough caulk has been applied to chimney flashing to stock a hardware store. A cricket was not installed. No leaks noted anywhere else.
How important is a cricket? Any other thoughts?
Many thanks,
Tom
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Chimneys over 18" wide should be cricketed.
There are several chimney flashing methods and I suggest always using that method which is prescribed by the roofing manufacturer.
However, my preferred method is to sawcut into the chimney and insert the flashing into the sawcut, and then seal it. This flashing would then come down over and under the roofing materials as appropriate.
If you'd like to see my company's instructions for chimney flashing, email me at [email protected]
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I have recently purchased an old colonial farmhouse in NH, circa 1830. We were told the roof was put on (metal with some sort of coating on it) about 6 years ago. We know there are shakes underneath (probably in pretty bad shape). Recently we've noticed leaks in a couple of spots (one above a window with rotting occuring). We have an appointment for someone to come inspect the leaks and the roof. If the shakes underneath are really bad, will I necessarily need a new roof, or is repair a possibility? I have no idea how much re-roofing will cost. Probably alot more than we can afford. Thanks.
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There are a number of metal roofing systems that have been tested to apply over exisiting roof materials including wood shingle and shake. The existing roof must be in reasonable condition and the structure needs to be sound.
OIf the roof material is not installed correctly and leaks occur it can cause some problems especially in the coolder climates. Also on older houses special attention needs to be paid to proper ventilation to elliminate condensation.
We manufacture a system that can be applied over shake. If you wouyld forward a close up of the roof system I might be able to identify the manufacturer and get you in contacxt with their area contractors.
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Ther metal roof on our camp is 4 years old and has a metalbestos chimney through it. It has leaked since it was installed. It is leaking worse than ever after repairs done after an ice slide. The repair included pulling the roofing off and reinstalling the chimney adding a rubber boot type thing on the stove pipe under the metal roofing and then the flashing is on top. It appears the flashing is leaking after being caulked with copious amounts of caulking material. We are having an ice dam installed this fall to help with ice sldes, but do you have suggestions about the flashing? Is there some other flashing technique or material out there? Should I use some sort of rubber sealant around the flashing?
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A couple of questions --
any chance at all that the cap on the pipe is leaking or that the design of the cap is creating a vaccuum and pulling water in? I have seen both things happen before.
Also, any chance that water is actually getting underneath the roofing higher up on the roof -- perhaps at the ridge -- and then rolling down the underlayment until it hits the chimney pipe?
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We are about to install a metal roofing system in a elementary school. The proposed system will be a metal standing seam roof installed on galv. metal deck, the attic space will not be heated,insulation will be installed over vapor barrier and gwb or act ceiling. The soffits and ridge will be vented. My question is: I have been told that it is good practice to install insulation (polyiso) directly under the metal roof to avoid condensation, is this true?
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Condensation occurs when the dewpoint is reached. This requires warm moist air hitting the back of a cooler metal roof panel. It sounds like your current insulation on the ceilings will prevent heat escape into the attic. The ventilation will vent out moisture as well as any heat which does enter the attic. I do not feel there would be any reason to insulate the back side of the roofing, given the situation you have described.
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I just bought a building with a new metal roof-- 12/12 pitch and 9 inches between ribs-- and am hesitating putting in a woodstove until I get more info on flashing the metalbestos pipe-- so far, I've heard that they often leak, are almost impossible to flash using Metalbestos' adjustable flashing, and that the rubber boot that's commonly used is not advised for a 12/12 pitch. Some say to install the flashing according to Metalbestos specs, with the top under the roof and the lower part on top of the roof, while others have told me to ignore those instrucions and go on top of the roof with a silicone or rubber caulk-- what's the advice from the pros?
Should I just forego the woodstove and go with a direct-vent gas furnace? Thanks, Karen
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We built our house in 1999. Our Decra shake roof was installed in September of 1999. Now 4 years later we have a roof that leaks. Not only in one place but 2. I have called tasman roofing the installer and the district managers, with no luck. No one will come look to see what the problem is. Do you have any advise for me.
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Well Ed I hope you feel better now that you have downloaded. Hopefully your note will get to the other people out there that act as their own architect and general contrator. The function of an architect is to look after the owners interests by designing a structure to the building code, selecting certain materials, soliciting bids and reviewing their qualifications and then supervising the work to the design.
For every link that one cuts out of this chain, the more onus falls onto the owner. In this case the roof assembly is not built to the building code. If you have an architect it is his fault and demand he corrects it. If you had the contractor include the design in his contract, then ask him to corect it. If you acted as the designer then the responsibility falls on you.
Yes metal will transfer heat/cold faster than other roof coverings and in certain climate, it could have more dew point crossings and condensation however the building code deals with this. Now your new design is flawed as well as it does not allow for ventilation.
I can't strongly enough recommend that you get referances from contractors and check them out. Then contact the manufacturer and check the materials fit for end use and get their approval. If they don't know what they are talking about, then this should be your next clue.
Today, I am assuming that you are left standing alone on the issue. I would take pictures and write a well documented tale to the roffing manufacturer and ask for his consideration in the issue as I suspect that the material is damaged and you may be chasing leaks no matter what you do.
Failing his support, Our firm has a company policy to assist homeowners with bad experiences with other metal roof systems, where we provide a 50% discount on material and try to see that the distributor moves it through at cost and we try to hook them up with a qualified installer if need be. If you are interested in this offer, then please forward the roof layout and contact information to my attention at Dura-loc and I will put my staff to work on it.
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