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Hi Todd,
I am a estimator at a lumber yard. The last four years my focus is with post frame construction, but lately, many of my newest customers have wanted me to help them with a design of steel roofing over the top of existing asphalt shingles. Standing seam and such on a new deck is fairly straight forward, but Agricultural (poleshed steel)panels are becoming more popular. To date, my understanding was to put some felt over the top of 1x4 or 2x4 horizontal girts and fasten the steel panels to those. My concern is everything is a guess. I came across this forumn searching for hardcore research and discussion about the proper way to prep a shingled roof for the application of structural 29 gauge steel spanning girts 24"oc. The manufactures of the six different companies I work with will not touch the issues of possible problems of moisture entrapment, insulation or ventilation underneath their panel. I read that you mentioned vertical stripping first followed with horizontal stripping to fasten the steel panels to. Is there a recommended deck prep or research data that a person can follow?
If you would, please emal me at [email protected]
Thank you
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Vertical strapping followed by horizontal allows for ventilation direct under the metal which can greatly improve the energy efficiency of a building.
I do not recommend doing residential installations without solid decking, whether you put strapping on top of the decking or not. The solid decking and underlayment help prevent attic condensation issues.
I have not seen major problems with trapping moisture between metal and underlayment / decking.
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Todd - I have a similar situation, but in my case the metal is already on the roof and no 1x4's were used. I have been thinking about going back and having the 1x4's installed and using the same metal, same screw holes etc. Because the holes are already in the metal, I am thinking that I can only lay the 1x4's horizontally - following the way the metal has been screwed down. Do you feel this will be cost efficient in reducing my energy bills? Thanks for your insight.
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Todd-
Could you send me the article you refer to? [email protected]
I'll be adding 26 gauge Rpanel roofing over a single layer of 3tab shingles. Plan is to put the 30lb felt first followed by the horizontal 1x4s. Do you recommend metal edging around the perimeter of the roof before I put down the 1x4's?
Thanks Jeff
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I have a roof that is 5/12 pitch. Part has attic and part is lofted. I am going to be installing metal roof over existing rolled roofing. I plan on "framing" the roof in with 2x4 on the attic roof for structural integrity. That part of the house is older, was never insulated or ventilated properly and was only sheathed with 3/8" material. The truss' are structurally sound.I have remedied the insulation issue by simply adding more insulation and the ventilation issue by adding a ridge vent and ensuring eave vents are unobstructed. My concern with this part of the roof is ventilation between the existing roof and the metal roof. Once framed in and metal is applied with solid closures at eaves and vented closures at ridge vent, will there be proper ventilation? Same concern on the vaulted ceiling. Also, if metal roofing is installed the same way as I described earlier with the addition of rigid foam insulation how will ventilation be obtained? Please respond to email directly. Sorry for long post.
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I am putting a steel roof on over shingles with a vented ridge cap. Is it necessary to strap the roof first. The contractor says no but lots of people I have been talking to says yes. What would you do if it was your house.
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I have an old cape cod house with 3 layers of shingles I hate the thought of a tearoff is there anyway to put steel roofing on without doing a tearoff? Any help for a poor guy?
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Hi Todd, I am recently getting bids from contractors on metal roofing. A contractor was telling me that there isn't much difference between 29 and 26 gauge and is promoting the 29 gauge(master rib)with stainless steal head screws to fasten over exiting shingles (no mention of felt or underlayment over shingles). I live in a heavy snowfall area (Buffalo, NY) and I'm unable to discern what would be better. After looking at this forum, I'm beginning to think that 26 gauge standing seam would be better choice and should I insist on some other type of product over shingles before applying metal or tear off single layer of shingle? I want something that will last 40-50 year without rust or problems. Can I get your opinion.
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I realize that you asked Todd, but I will put in my two cents as well.
An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure. If the shingles are that degraded, it makes best sense to remove them in my book. If from only the standpoint of worker safety, I would much rather have my guys walking on a less slippery surface.
Asphalt shingles have no place on a roof in my opinion and I would remove them in a heartbeat.
If you need to make the roof more walkable, direct to deck application is best. Rip the shingles off, put down an approved underlayment (preferably a synthetic and not building felt) and now you new roof. I would double check that the plywood is down securely and in good shape. You cannot do that in a roof over application.
There is the energy part of the equation that, depending where you live and your exposure, makes the home more efficient with the shingles off as well, but that is secondary to my other suggestions.
Eric Novotny An informed customer is the Best Customer!
6/12/2010
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I have a one story house which is leaking in what used to be back porch which we turned into a walkin pantry. It was an add on by the previous owner. Whenever it rains hard it leaks. we put some new shingles but I believe the water is coming down from the opposite roof into the porch.We are looking into replacing the roof. it is in between two valleys and the other roof. I think I have approximately 2300 square feet in the house. what be the approximate cost for materials alone if we( my wife and I )replaced it with metal roofing compared to asphalt shingles. We have done most of the house ourselves so we are capable of doing the work.Would we save enough to make a difference?
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I want to place metal roof over existing shingles
How does color affect “heat gain” in house? Can I insulate between layers?
How should I prepare the existing surface (currently composition with ridge vent)
Any specific style/manufacturer?
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Many metal roofs will go over your old shingle roof, with a layer of underlayment installed.
Lightest colors always have greatest reflectivity but there are new "cool colors" which have decent reflectivity even in dark shades.
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