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If you do not feel compelled to ventilate the area beneat the metal, there are products that can be installed over horizontal products. Also many products that can be installed over your existing shingles, without any battens.
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Dedie, I am in my office now. I do not know what sort of metal roofing you're installing and that has a big impact on things. I would not eliminate vents if you can help it though.
I am in my office for a few minutes now ... and will be back on Wednesday. Call me if you wish 1-800-543-8938 ext 201
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Hi!
We are on a budget and want to do the roof ourselves. We plan to install the metal roof over our existing 10-year-old shingle roof. We have done regular shingles before, but the metal is new to us.
We had some wind damage and a few plywood board have buckled, giving the roof a wavy effect. But there is no leak.
Are there how-to videos out there? Please give us step-by-step instruction.
1. How far apart should we place our 1x4 boards? Are these what you call battens?
2. We will not remove the shingles, but do we need to use any material on top of the shingles? If yes, what do we use? You mentioned underlayment earlier, is this what we should use?
3. What kind of metal that would be inexpensive, but will last 10-15 years?
4. We will need to put some turbines. Do we go through the existing roof (through the plywood)? What would you recommend?
5. To anchor the metal down, what should we use?
Thank you so much for your time.
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The key is in finding a product that fits your budget and your tastes and wishes.
It is important to understand the huge variety of available products.
If you email to me at [email protected], I have an article I can send to you which will help.
The answers pretty much all of your questions are based upon what type of product you choose. I think we're best to start with getting the article to you and then going from there.
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I'll step in for Todd.
One needs to make sure that there is no rot in the decking and that the existing sheathing is in condition. With a cedar deck, it has better resistance however high wind areas such as Florida require solid sheathing of a certaing thickness.
Some metal roof systems are designed to go straight over existing ashphalt shingles "if they are in a reasonable condition" and typically a 30 lb felt paper is laid to help the panels float into position and "help" not telegraph the substrate through. It sounds like yopur shingles are beyond that.
There are then some metal roof systems, typically panelized systems designed to mount on strapping.Check the manufacturers product approval on the systems you choose as it will dictate its limitations on fastening and application.
Remeber you are installing a lifetime roof so do it right and do it once. The building code requires a minimum underlayment. If the existing shingles are in that bad a shape then it will be difficult to install underlayment without damaging it so the choice would be to buy an reinforced underlayment and tape seal any repairs or remove the roof and use a felt.
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Hey Todd,
I am about to re-rood\f my house using 1'locking seam metal usising 1x4's over the existing 3tab roof. I was told by the manufacture that putting any new underlayment down before installing the roof wasn't necesary. Why do you recommend it?
Jim
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First of all, I assumed that the product you are installing is approved for installation over battens like this. If you're not certain please check with the manufacturer. Also check to see if just horizontal battens are okay or if vertical followed by horizontal are better.
If battens were not present, the underlayment would keep the rough surface of the old shingles from rubbing the back of the metal.
It becomes less critical when battens are being use for the metal.
However, the underlayment can provide extra protection against condensation reaching the old shingles as well as extraq protection should you have a roof flashing bleed some water on occasion.
In your case, it would just be an extra safeguard more than anything.
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When you say more heavily formed metal may alleviate some deformity from the older shingles, will "U" panels @ 26 ga be considered more heavy. They have raised ribs every 6" I think.
My shingle roof is only 2 years old, and I'm thinking of placing metal over the shingles. Will the 30 lb felt (even w/ 2 layers) suffice over the synthetic types of barrier. Also are the slats really necessary. Are they to serve more in keeping the metal from conforming to the profile of the shingles below it, or more as an insulation gap of air. Thanks
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With most metal roofs, slats are not essential. With some they are not even an option. However, there is something to be said from an energy standpoint for the dead airspace they create.
30 pound felt is a good underlayment.
Always check with your roofing manufacturer to get their opinion on whether to remove the old shingles.
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You always get a better, flatter, smoother looking roof if you tear the old roof off down to the deck. The screws even look better. When you put the screws in metal, you are trying to achieve a certain tightness for a seal but not over tighten. Composition shingles compress when the screw pulls the metal down against them. This in turn causes a dimple. You get some dimpling on metal anyway but doing it over composition looks more like a golf ball hit the roof where the screw is. I've seen houses where it looks like a thousand golf balls have hit the roof which could have been avoided by removing the comp.
The 26 gauge U-Panel is a good roof.
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Thanks Wade. I very much agree with Wade on through-fastened metal roofs and some standing seam. Many of the metal shingles, though, can easily and very well go over existing shingles. I have worked with metal shingles for over 27 years and been involved with probably nearly 100,000 installations over existing shingles and never once have I gone back and regretted that the old shingles were not removed.
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I am considering metal over old shingles. My neighbor did metal but used the wood slats every 2' because he said that the shingles would "rot" out and he had "waves" in his roof. I have "waves" in my roof also are slats be necessary for a "good" look?
Thanks
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Battens can help to even out the roof in many cases. They do not necessarily help with the "rot" issue ... that is best handled with good attic ventilation.
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I have an old house that has been added on to several time. Mostly before building codes in this area. I am interested in putting a new metal roof over the shingled roof I have now. As I am doing this myself can I do it in pieces. By pieces I mean one side now then another side later like in the fall and next spring do another side? I need to do this because every time I start one project on this old house I run into 2 more projects I find needs done to complete the first project. Owner before me just patched problems without fixing them for the long term. As long as I place a ridge cap on the project when I finish that part will it be good till I do the next part?
My east roof is the roof I need to deal with first. and it has a "wave" in it. I plan to place 30# felt over the old singles and use a 2X4's as my stripping till I get down to the front porch and use 1X4's on it. The porch does not have the pitch as the house roof has. In my mind I need to do this so the house roof over lap the porch for proper dainage.
Will placing the 2X4's every 4 foot be OK? If placed correctly will this help take the wave out of the roof?
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