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First of all, building codes in effect in most areas restrict to two layers maximum.
If you are in an area where there is no building code in effect, you might be able to go over this. I would consider having a structural engineer review the home first and do some load studies. It all depends on the construction and condition of your home and roof.
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Hi Todd - I just posted our situation on another string, but seems you are active so I'll raise it here too - as it is consistent.
We bought a log cabin that had apparent water stains on the ceiling inside. The seller told us, when we inquired on the date of closing, that this all related to the former roof which had been a problem. He advised that the bank had required them to install a new roof (a year or so earlier) and they put on a metal roof (not standing seam). The water instrusion continued. We have had water coming in through where the stove pipe exists through the roof (a round pipe but surrounded by a squared-box and no flashing we have just learned); and where the main roof of greater slope joins with a more gradual sloping part of the roof that goes over the front porch; on the porch interior and we have observed water running off the roof from under the metal roof. Three contractors have recently told me that this building should never have been fitted with a metal roof because 1) metal roofs were not designed for residential use (colling and heating), 2) it is difficult to properly flash around skylights such as we have, and in general, 3) the roof slope was too shallow to avoid ice freezing and melting and seeping through at the referenced joint/channel . . . etc. Each roffer said that asphalt shingles would have been the appropriate application/material for this situation. Can you explain these comments? Also, where, exactly, might I go to see the applicable codes that should have governed this construction (in NY state)? Appreciate ANY help/advice you can give! I will try to send you an email with a photo or two of the roof I am referring to (hope you don't mind me doing that!) THANK YOU - Jen
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I live near the ocean and am using Fabral aluminum panels over asphalt shingles. I would prefer not to use 1X4 furring strips and go right over the shingles. What do you think? Also can you walk on this type of roof without denting it, after it is on?
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You really need to check with Fabral but I believe that their preference is for that product to be installed over solid deck, meaning I think they'd prefer you put underlayment over the old shingles and then go over that. You really need to check with them though. It should be walkable though.
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Hi Todd, Please settle this debate between my husband and myself. We are going to install a new metal roof. I say we need to remove the exciting shingles, my husband wants to leave them on. It is only one layer but the shingles are so bad that if you touch some of them they fall off. You could take a broom and sweep some of them off because they are so rotten and loose. Under the shingles our roof is made out of cedar decking not plywood. He is planning on putting down 1x4 boards or 50 pound roof felt. I don't think it is a big deal to remove the shingles since they are in such bad shape. I am worried since some are loose what will happen once the metal roof is installed. He told me to write to you, so your answer will settle this. Do we remove the exciting roof or not? Also no one around here has put any roof vents on with the metal roof. Why? Does roof vents leak with metal roofs? Thanks Jill
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Oh no! Either way I answer, I see myself getting bills from divorce attorneys in a couple of months!
Well, let's hope not!
Many metal roofs have been installed over old shingles. In fact, with 25 years of industry time under my belt, I have yet to ever encounter a job where we later said "Gosh, it would have been better if we'd torn off the old shingles."
Keeping the old shingles in place is good in terms of helping with total roofing project cost, home insulation, and reduced yard mess.
Now, all that said, seeing as how bad of shape these old shingles are, I would be concerned that there may have been roof leaks and rotted lumber. Fact is, the new metal roof will fasten to the decking, not the old shingles. Deterioration of the old shingles will not have a major impact. However, if the old shingles are on top of rotted decking, then that is a problem and the old shingles should be removed and decking repairs made as necessary.
If you're looking at metal roofs designed for residential use, a number of attic ventilation options should be available. Proper attic ventilation helps avoid an unhealthy build up of heat or moisture in the attic.
Kiss and make up! Love and cherish each other forever! Fact is, there is some truth to what both of you thought!
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Thank you so much. We have been married for 30 years so no divorce court. You actually hit upon something neither of us thought of. Yes we have leaks thru out the house. When it rains it rains inside also. So the shingles come off. We are doing this ourselves so up on the roof we go with shovels.
Do you recommend regular house vents put in the metal roof or just put fans in the attic to exhust the heat. Both sides of our house has big octagon vent openings so putting in fans will be no problem.
One more thing, my husband wants to know do we use 30 or 50 pound felt? Thanks again. Jill
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Hi Jill,
Thanks for your questions.
I personally, out of thousands of metal roof installations over old shingles, have never had a job where I regretted going over the old shingles rather than removing them. And some of those have been over shingles that were pretty bad.
That said, if it keeps peace in the family :-) it is fine to remove the old shingles. Sounds like it maybe would not be too tough.
The roof should, at the least, be swept clean and then a good underlayment put down, such as 30-pound felt or one of the new synthetic underlayments.
Many residential metal roofs can be installed right over the underlayment then. Some of them can be installed over battens if you prefer to do it that way but make sure that the roof you are installing is approved and engineered to be installed that way.
If you do install battens, I personally would suggest vertical battens first and then horizontal battens. Spacing of the battens will be specified by the roofing manufacturer. Vertical battens would allow you to create a vented airspace between the metal and the roof deck. That vented space will really help with energy efficiency.
Now, you asked about ventilation .. I am assuming your home as normal construction -- attic space and all that jazz. Regardless of whether you do what I mentioned above with the vented space beneath the metal, I would make sure that the attic has good eave soffit venting as intake and then put a ridge vent in the roof for exhaust.
Any quality residential metal roof will have a recommended procedure for ridge venting.
If you'd like to know more about residential metal roofing and the types of available products, email me at [email protected] and I have a good article I will email back to you.
All Best.
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I am very interested in answer you recieved from Todd as we have a dilema on our hands as to whether or not to replace a roof on a log home with metal or asphalt. We also have vent pipe , chimney and 4 skylights.
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How did you make out with your roof? Did you lay the panels straight over or did you strap? Length of screws - how spaced. Would appreciate learning of your experience for this 'do it yourselfer'.
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Which is thicker 26 gauge or 29 gauge metal?
Using a vertical 36 inch wide panel (similar to what you see on barns)
Condensation? - Strapping the roof horizontally at 16 inch o.c.
Felt paper below strapping, condensation will get trapped causing the strapping to rot over time. How do you prevent this?
WE live OntairoT Can.
Thanks
Paul
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Which is thicker 26 gauge or 29 gauge metal?
Using a vertical 36 inch wide panel (similar to what you see on barns)
Condensation? - Strapping the roof horizontally at 16 inch o.c.
Felt paper below strapping, condensation will get trapped causing the strapping to rot over time. How do you prevent this?
WE live OntairoT Can.
Thanks
Paul
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26 gauge is heavier than 29 gauge.
Make sure that your method of installation is in keeping with the roofing manufacturer's instructions.
There are battens available which are slotted or you can also put down vertical battens first, followed by horizontal.
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I have an existing asphalt roof which I am placing a metal roof over. Are the vertical battens necessary or can I get away with #30 felt and horizontal 1 x 4s? The builder (1963) used 1 x 6s as both the ceiling and the roof decking (bottom side is the ceiling, top side the decking). Although the roof leaks around a chimney, the rest of the roof is fairly dry.
I would love to avoid the work and mess of asphalt removal but will do it if necessary.
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