Join the MRA | Member Login
Find a Professional
  • Why Metal Roofing?
    • About MRA
    • Benefits of Metal Roofing
    • Compare Roofing Materials
    • Homeowner Testimonials
    • Inspiring Metal Roofing Projects
  • Homeowner Resources
    • Metal Roofing Buyers Guide
    • Resilient Housing Guide
    • Metal Roof Sustainability Guide
    • Above All Else You Need a New Roof eBook
    • MRA News
    • Member Provided Resources
    • 3rd Party Articles
    • Frequently Asked Questions
    • Preparing for Hurricane Season
  • Gallery
  • Visualizer
  • Ask The Experts
    • Energy Efficiency
    • Existing Metal Roof Questions
    • Installation
    • Is A Metal Roof Right For My House
    • Metal Roofing Benefits
    • Product Selection
    • Other
    • Archive
  • Find a Professional
Join the MRA Member Login
Sign Up Log In Add New Topic

TOPIC: Ventilation

vents on metal roofs

Return to Ventilation

Return to Archive

Return to Forum

This topic has been closed by the administrator. Comments are no longer accepted.
Am I correct in assuming that a square vent 7"x12" that is on an existing shingle room must be taken off and raised to accomodate a 5v being applied over furring? If so any trick to it? Also am I correct that the panel where the vent is should be put on first so it can be placed in the middle of a panel rather than on a seam ?
Guest User

10/21/2004
Share
Or copy this URL: https://www.metalroofing.com/spirit/comment/4445/find/
Yes, the vent will have to be removed and either re-installed or replaced. It would be best to avoid any of the ribs. Do not proceed with any aspects of the installation unless you have complete installation details from the manufacturer.
Guest User

10/23/2004
Share
Or copy this URL: https://www.metalroofing.com/spirit/comment/4446/find/
Mr. Reid responded generously to my closed cell question, except now I fear I might be on the wrong track. I live in florida and currently have a three dimentional ashphalt shingle over 1/2" plywood. Trusses are 24" on center. The roof is a 5/12 pitch and all ceilings, cathedral or flat are insulated and the roof has vented ridges Southeast metals, the 5 v manufacturer allows direct application over the 3 d as long as a #30lb felt is first applied. I am on the coast and that application satisfies 140 mph wind codes. As you are aware the panels are screwed at each seam of 24" and mid panel at about 12". I spoke with one technical advisor at Southeast and he said I will not always hit the trussess. That confused me and I will call back and ask why as it seems I should each and every time. I have read the product application throughly and there is no reference to screwing into the trusses. Secondly I am concerned about direct application over the 3 d is will a 26 ga. metal bend if walked on in that situation ? The possibility of bending the metal while stepping on it along with the strength of 1x4 screwed into the trusses would give me (assuming that the southeast metal rep was right). However if I decieded to use 1x4s I still have a 16" space inbetween so any walking on the roof would have to be on the furrings. That is how I came up with the idea of putting insulation inbetween the 16" 1x4s. However Mr. Reid pointed out I may not benefit from the insulation. Lastly, I prefer not to take the shingles off as I will be doing this by myself and the job is over 40 square. The thought of ripping off the shingles and applying #30 felt troubles me a little considering the rain we get down here. thank you for your patience.
Guest User

10/26/2004
Share
Or copy this URL: https://www.metalroofing.com/spirit/comment/4447/find/
No one is going to know the attributes and characteristics of SE's panels better than they do. However, generally, a quality 5V Crimp should successfully go over a dimensional shingle, especially when 30-pound is installed between the two. I second Al's previous answer to your insulation post, by the way. I would say that virtually all wind and uplift testing on metal roofing is done with fastening into the decking or purlins. It is impossible "in the field" to depend on hitting rafters with every fastener. You might very well luck out and have it work for you but, generally, that is not the case.
Guest User

10/27/2004
Share
Or copy this URL: https://www.metalroofing.com/spirit/comment/4448/find/
  • About the MRA
    • Member Companies
    • Leadership
    • MRA News
  • For Professionals
    • Join the MRA
    • Industry Resources
    • Upcoming Events
  • Contact
  • Subscribe
©2023 Metal Roofing Alliance. All Rights Reserved. Privacy Policy Terms and Conditions