Ask-The-Experts forum

Below is a forum for exchanging information concerning residential metal roofing, including general material and metal roofing installation questions. Should you have questions or concerns that deal with specific branded metal roof products please contact the manufacturer directly.

Expert Panel

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  Tom has been in the metal roofing industry for the past twenty years, serving in product and business development, marketing, as an industry consultant, and in his current position as Executive Director of the MRA. Tom writes, "I'm not an 'expert' installer -- but I know enough to be dangerous! I've installed small metal roofing projects and organized installation training seminars. And I know when I need more expert help to answer your questions. So when you get an answer from me, you know there's expertise behind it."

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  Todd has served as President of Classic Products, Inc., one of the country's leading metal roofing manufacturers, since 1996. Before that, he served for 15 years in various marketing-related roles at the company. Under Todd's leadership, Classic Products has taken an active role in educating homeowners across North America about the many advantages of metal roofing. Todd participates in various metal roofing industry associations, and is a Board Member of the Metal Roofing Alliance (MRA) and Metal Construction Association (MCA).

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  Mr. Bus has over twenty years experience in the metal roofing and siding industry. Dick is President of ATAS International, Inc., a family owned manufacturer of architectural and residential metal roofing and siding. ATAS manufactures profiles in aluminum and steel for the residential and architectural roofing market. Panels are manufactured with high performance coatings. Dick was Chairman of the Residential Roofing Council for the Metal Construction Association (MCA). He Chaired the committee to write the Minimum Performance Guideline for Residential Metal Roofing. He is now the 2nd Vice President of the MCA, which is part of the Board of Directors and he is also, President of the Metal Roofing Alliance (MRA), a consumer awareness campaign.

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  Ken Buchinger is Vice President of Corporate Warranties and Certifications for Houston based NCI Building Systems. He has been with the company for 18 years. He is responsible for product testing, improvements, and development. In addition, he is in charge of the company's Erector Certification Program, which trains erectors in the proper installation techniques of the company's metal roofing systems. And, he also is in charge of inspection and review of projects for weathertightness warranties. Ken has written numerous articles for various trade magazines and gives presentations for various organizations. Prior to joining the company in 1988, Ken erected metal buildings, architectural roofing systems and structural steel for 13 years.

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  David Stermer is the Director of Engineering for Metal Sales Manufacturing Corporation based in Louisville, Kentucky. He has been in his current position since 2005. David is responsible for product testing, product approval, product development, documentation and project design. Prior to joining Metal Sales, David worked for a major metal building manufacturer for 15 years in various roles, including Design Engineer and Engineering Manager. David is a Professional Engineer, has a Master of Sciences degree in Structural Engineering and is currently serving on the ASCE 7-16 Wind Load Subcommittee.

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  Melissa is the Territory Manager for the Northeast and Texas for Umicore Building Products, manufacturers of VM Zinc. She has been with the company for five years in a variety of roles and is now responsible for meeting with architects and installers, giving presentations on metal roofing and reviewing details. She is not an installer by trade, but has taken part in installation training sessions and understands the mechanics of metal roof systems.

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If you have a metal roofing question, please post it below and a member of our panel of contributors will provide a response. Answers provided by contributors are based on the limited information posted and, therefore, may not provide a complete or accurate answer under all of the relevant facts and circumstances. No advice or information obtained through the forum or this website shall create any warranty by MRA or its contributors whatsoever and all warranties are disclaimed. MRA and its contributors disclaim any liability of any kind arising out of or relating to use of the answers or information provided hereunder, and by using the forum, you agree to waive any claims against MRA and its contributors and hold them harmless from any liability or damages of any kind arising out of or relating to the forum. For a detailed description of the terms and conditions of use of the Forum and this website, including a more detailed description of disclaimers of warranties and limitations of liability, please see the Terms and Conditions section of this website. MRA does not endorse or recommend any commercial products, processes, or services. The views and opinions of contributors to this Forum do not necessarily state or reflect those of MRA or its members, and they may not be used for advertising or product endorsement purposes.

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Ask-The-Experts > Is A Metal Roof Right For My House

what is the correct way to install metal roof
paul heckman 1 Posts I have a cabin with not 2 but 3 layers of existing "roofing" (1 layer of shingles and 2 layers of roll roofing). It has about a 6/12 pitch running about 50 feet long and 11 feet from peek to drip edge, it also has a porch area on each side with more like a 2/12 or 3/12 pitch area.I know the old has to come off and was thinking about metal sheet roofing but have read about using furring strips or not and just putting the metal right on 30 lb felt paper on the deck. I do not want the deck to rot out, but there seems to be no right or wrong way with "experts" saying both are ok. Will either way work, one better than the other? How do you make the transition from the steeper pitch to the shallower pitch, will flashing cover it, how far should it go over the lower section to prevent snow/ice from backing up under it? Would the flashing match the ridges in the metal roofing? Thanks for any help. Posted On: 6/12/11 12:44PM | Geographical Location: Northern Wisconsin
Todd Miller 4436 Posts "Classic Products, Inc." You will need a pitch change flashing as well as ridge flashing. There should be closures or a Z Channel available to close in the roof profile where it meets the ridge. You do not have to install over furring strips. Installing direct to deck with underlayment works very well. Furring strips, which can be used with some products, would help summer energy efficiency. I would advise using this time to also take a look at your attic ventilation and see if it can be or should be improved. Replied On: 6/12/11 5:15PM
Info @windowsonwashington.net 751 Posts "An informed customer is our best customer." Given the temperature extremes and likelihood of condensation in these type of conditions, I would echo Todd's recommendation to examine the attic ventilation and insulation. If you use a system of furring strips to attach the new roof to the old, you could create an over deck venting system and potentially eliminate some of the ice damning problem. I would also encourage you to look critically at the attic insulation and see if you can eliminate the source of the problem (ice damning) altogether. Replied On: 6/13/11 7:52AM
Todd Miller 4436 Posts "Classic Products, Inc." A couple of additional notes ... I'd missed your reference to ice and snow earlier. A real key on pitch change flashings is to make certain they are mounted high enough on the upper roof that you are able to maintain positive pitch on the flashing. The flashing should go up under the upper roof by several inchues and also have extra underlayment work in so it goes under a higher section of underlayment. The transition flashing should come out on the lower roof by at least 4 - 6" and also have a Z channel ir other flashing or method of keeping ice and snow from backing up under it. And, absolutely, if ice has been a problem in the past, take a hard look at insulation and ventilation in the attic. Replied On: 6/13/11 8:27AM